Did You Know There Are Dog Allergies?

Just like humans, dogs can have allergies to anything and everything under the sun. However, it can be much more difficult to recognize the allergens present and to find the best treatment plan for dogs than it is for humans. My precious little Staffordshire Terrier mix, Annie, has been diagnosed with severe allergies to grass, grain, and potatoes. While she is probably allergic to several other things as well, these are all we know for sure.

Our journey into the vast world of dog allergies came to be when I noticed a light pink rash on her chest just a few months after I adopted her. She has very thin fur, so it was easy to spot. My family and I thought it could be a simple heat rash because she had been outside in the sun for quite a while. We brought her inside to cool down, and wrote it off as nothing more. A few days later, it was still there and growing significantly worse. Deciding that it couldn’t be just from the heat, I took her to her vet, Animal Hospital of Las Cruces, the next day.

Annie with a severe rash and hot spots under her chin.

Diagnosis and Use of Steroids on Dogs

The vet diagnosed her with an allergy to grass and weeds and gave her a prescription for prednisone, a strong oral steroid. By the end of the week, her skin was looking as good as ever! …until the steroids wore off.

The allergies were back with a vengeance, causing terrible rashes, hives, and hot spots that made Annie so uncomfortable that she would scratch herself until she bled. After many more trips to the vet, a diagnosis of food allergies on top of the environmental allergies, and vast supplies of steroids, I realized that there had to be a better way.

While oral steroids work wonders on rashes, inflammation, and hives, the side effects can be just as prominent especially if given on a regular basis. These side effects can include ulcers, delayed healing, aggression, and diabetes. I decided that daily oral steroid use was not the route I wanted to go to help Annie’s allergies. To me, the risks did not necessarily outweigh the benefits if I could find something better.

Boxer with hives http://www.dogshowpictures.net/marvelous-along-with-tempting-dog-hives-photography/hivesallergies-boxer-forum-boxer-breed-dog-forums-throughout-dog-hives/

Non-Oral Steroids

Annie and I returned to the vet one more time. We were given a topical steroid spray called Genta-Spray that could be used to help heal rashes and hives with practically zero side effects. This stuff works wonders, but only when there is already a rash present. Annie would still have to go through days of discomfort before the spray does its job. Because of this, my vet and I devolved a daily regimen for Annie to keep the rashes at bay.

Diet

Food allergies are one of the most common types of allergies found in dogs. One of the first steps in figuring out what kind of allergies your dog has is eliminating grain from the diet and changing the protein. I switched Annie to a grain-free dog food brand specifically for dog allergies called AvoDerm and her skin cleared within a few days! And then it became much worse. I rushed to the dog food professionals at Better Life Natural Pet Foods. There, they informed me that grain-free foods have a much higher percentage of potatoes than regular dog food. This is because the food needs something substantial to replace the grain and the starch of the potato does the perfect job. This lead us to believe that Annie has an allergy to both grain and potato.

Thankfully, Better Life carried one brand of dog food that is made in a factory 100% free of both grain and potato called Zignature. While it is much more expensive than a normal dog food, I immediately purchased a bag. The affect was noticeable within a few short days. Annie’s skin cleared significantly, but there was still the issue of her environmental allergies to grass and weeds.

Down to a mild rash. Progress!

Supplements and Medication

One of the most important things to do for dogs with allergies is to keep their skin as moisturized and healthy as possible. Because of this, a daily regimen of fish oil is recommended. I started Annie on a daily dose of two 1300 mg capsules of fish oil which immensely helped her skin heal faster and break out into rashes less. For proper fish oil dosing, visit the link below.

http://csu-cvmbs.colostate.edu/vth/small-animal/sports-medicine-rehabilitation/Pages/fish-oil-dosing-chart.aspx

At the same time, l started Annie on a daily dose of Benadryl, upon the advise of her vet. She takes three regular Benadryl a day, one in the morning, two at night. For appropriate Benadryl dosing, see the website below. This helps keep her allergies in control and causes her rashes to be less severe. This daily regimen of medicines, avoidance of known allergens, and use of topical steroid spray when needed did a great deal in helping Annie fight off her extreme reactions, but her problems were still frequent enough that I added in one more step.

https://bullymax.com/benadryl-for-dogs/

Bathing

I firmly belive that this final step is what drew everything together and helped make Annie’s skin as consistently good as it is today. While Annie absolutely hates baths and anything to do with water, bathing her twice a week has made it so that she rarely gets severe rashes and when a rash is starting to appear, it vanishes quickly without causing her much discomfort. Bathing removes any environmental allergens from their skin and fur. Dogs, unlike humans, absorb the allergens through their paws and fur, making it nearly impossible for them to escape their discomfort unless it is scrubbed off of them. Twice a week, I soak Annie’s paws in a few inches of water, rinse her coat, shampoo her with itch-controlling shampoo, wash her with fresh water, and then apply a layer of lotion made specifically for dogs, and spray her with her topical steroid spray if needed.

Because bathing is known to dry out the skin and wash away oils on the dog’s fur, it is important to keep them moisturized, bringing us back to the necessity of fish oil and the possibility of using lotion for your dog. Annie began getting dandruff on top of everything else once I started bathing her regularly, so applying lotion is a very important step in the process. I have found that Warren London Hydrating Butter for Dogs Skin and Fur is a very good lotion for much less money than most other options. And it smells absolutely amazing, which is a huge plus in my book.

Annie is starting to feel better after a good bath.

What You Can Do

Every dog is different, and every dog’s allergies are different. It is important to remember that some things will work and some won’t. It took the course of two years to figure out this detailed regimen for Annie, and she still gets rashes fairly regularly. They are MUCH better than they used to be, but they are still there. If your dog has allergies, it will probably be something that you and your dog will be dealing with for the rest of their life. I would recommend trying anything you can to help your dog be as comfortable as possible, for as long as possible.

One option that I have not yet tried is getting your dog tested to see exactly what they are allergic to. I have not done this for Annie yet because it costs about $400 a test, dogs allergies are constantly changing and evolving so one test might not be accurate for their whole lives, and the test does not tell you how to fix it or even give you a plan of action. Most allergies can be discovered with a conversation between you and your vet, but this is definitely a good option for some with even more extreme allergies than Annie has.

Presenting her beautifully clear skin.

Another option that I haven’t had a need for is Jax n’ Daisy shampoo and lotion. It is similar to the shampoo and lotion that I do use, but it is a much stronger formula that is supposed to make drastic changes very quickly. The testimonials on their website seem to speak for themselves.

The most important part of figuring out a plan to tackle your dogs allergies is to be in communication with your vet in every step along the way. If you suspect your dog might have allergies, take them to the vet. If they prescribe something that isn’t working, let them know. If you have an idea of a regimen for your dog, ask your vet about it about it and don’t begin until you get the go-ahead from them. It will take a lot of work and often a lot of money, but there are alternatives to every option out there. As you can see from the immense progress that Annie has made, the determination to make a change is worth all of this and more.

Jessica Smith, Associate Editor, having been raised in a household full of dogs, guinea pigs, hamsters, and all things furry, Jessica’s love of animals has only grown over the years. She is currently volunteering for Safe Haven Animal Sanctuary in her free time when she isn’t out and about with her ridiculous pit bull mix, Annabel Lee, or taking care of her remarkably ancient guinea pig, Moose. She is also putting her literature degree to use by working as an editor for a local online magazine, Independent Noise. While she has no plans for the future, she knows that it will be filled with fur and fiction galore. You can e-mail Jessica at associateeditorjessica@yourpetspace.info

So, you’ve got a new puppy and along with it came all the new responsibilities of training and caring for it. Beginning from day one you and your dog are both learning about feeding, playing, and bathroom habits. However, one crucial skill you should also consider mastering with your pet is crate training.

Reasons to have your pet crate trained:

Having your dog crate trained can benefit not only the dog owners but also the dogs themselves. Many owners have busy schedules that require them to either transport their dog to and from places or leave them alone for a few hours. Having your dog in a crate during car rides or at home while you’re away can ensure that they are safe and not getting into anything they shouldn’t be. Some dogs find crates useful for reducing anxiety. It gives them a small place where they can rest and feel safe. Whatever the case may be, crate training can be a helpful skill to teach your pet.

A common myth about crate training is that it is cruel for your animal. However, this is far from the truth. Your dogs’ ancestors sought out small dens to rest in and feel safe thousands of years ago, in the wild. A crate can help facilitate that instinctual need to have a cozy area for your pet to feel protected in. For puppies and smaller dogs, this need for a small space to rest in can be even more necessary because of the overwhelming size of a home.

This pup found a comfortable spot to nap in his crate.

Although they are cute, having a puppy tends to come with the risk of them destroying your house when nobody is watching. Crating them while you’re busy gives you the confidence of knowing that your home and pet will remain just as you left them.

If you have decided that crate training your dog is the right thing for you, there are some guidelines you should follow to be successful.

Do: Find a crate that accommodates your dog according to their size

This rule can be a little tricky when you have a puppy because you want to get them a crate that they will be comfortable in as they grow. Certain dogs like bull mastiff puppies start small and weigh around 30 pounds as puppies however, they grow to weigh up to almost 200 pounds depending on their gender. Although most dogs don’t grow that large, it’s important to account for the size that your dogs breed may grow to.

If you know your dog is going to get bigger but do not want to buy too large or too small of a crate utilize crate dividers that can be found at most places where crates are sold. The dividers allow you to give your pet enough space to feel comfortable in a big crate but not enough space to roam too much or have an accident. Once they grow you can move the dividers accordingly or get rid of them all together and utilize the entire space that a bigger crate has to offer.

This beautiful German Shepard has a crate that fits him perfectly.

Don’t: Use the crate as a punishment

When crate training your dog you want to make sure they feel as comfortable as possible while being inside the crate. Associate the crate with fun by giving them a treat or a toy when they are inside of it. Place a bed or a warm blanket on the floor of the crate so your pup can lay down and rest while they spend their time inside their “room.”

Some dogs may get anxious and need rest from the chaos of family get togethers or even thunder storms. This is when you can place your dog into the crate to make them feel safe. Laying a thin blanket on top of the crate can assist with help making the crate feel more soothing and allow the pup to sleep easier. Just make sure there is still a passage for air to come in and out so you don’t suffocate your poor pup.

This little guy has plenty of toys in his crate to keep him company.

Do: Feed them meals and have water available in the crate

Training your dog to eat in the crate can help substantially when it comes to getting them comfortable with the space. Allow some time for your pet to sniff around the crate and get familiar with their surroundings before putting the food bowl into the crate. Encouraging them to step in and eat while closing the door behind them quietly will take some stress away from the situation. Once they have finished eating let them out and let them know that you are happy with them. The more you practice feeding your dog in the crate the safer they will feel when the times comes to go in.

Don’t: Leave your dog in a crate for more than 3 or 4 hours

The crate isn’t meant to imprison your pet. It should be used only when needed otherwise your dog will grow to dislike the crate and may refuse to get in. Puppies especially should not be forced to stay in a crate for long periods of time because of their smaller bladders. Older dogs can physically hold it for up to around 7 hours but should not be forced to unless necessary. Keeping your puppy in a confined space for too long could result in them soiling their bed causing discomfort and a mess for you to clean up. Avoid this by simply taking your pup out of the crate frequently for bathroom breaks. If you are unable to supervise your puppy while they are in the crate you may need to change your schedule around or ask for help.

Every dog is different. Its important to find a crate that is the most suited for your dogs breed and size.

Do: Be patient

Every dog is different. It could take more or less time to successfully crate train your dog depending on their personality and anxiety level. Your dog needs a lot of encouragement and support while learning to go in and out of the crate comfortably. You may have to repeat yourself often and continue to provide treats or toys until your dog can be confident that the crate is a good place. Once they have gotten in and out of the crate a few times try closing the door and opening it to get them used to the feeling of being confined in the space. Always reassuring them with a happy tone of voice can make the transition easier and faster to get the hang of.

Don’t: Be too demanding

Your dog wants to be your best friend (usually). However, they aren’t always sure of what you want them to do. Going in and out of the crate can be confusing or cause a lot of stress for dogs that are first trying it. Be aware of this and make sure that you aren’t too demanding of your dog right off the bat. Stay enthusiastic when attempting to persuade your dog to get into the crate and don’t have such high expectations on the first day. Crate training could take weeks depending on the dog, so make sure to not be too hard on your pup if they can’t get it the first couple of tries.

Being in a crate should not be associated with punishment or stress. It should be used to give your pup a break and allow them some time to relax.

Do your research:

Don’t be afraid to search for little tips and tricks on how to work with your dog during the crate training process. Research crates and find one that’s best for you and your pet considering size, visibility, and comfort. Doing my own research I found many helpful articles from sites like the American Kennel Club, The Humane Society of the United States, and Caesars Way. Below I’ve posted some links that will help you navigate through your journey of crate training your dog.

Crate training 101

Puppy crate training made easy

How to crate train a puppy

Lazarus Gomez, Managing Editor, is an aspiring writer from Phoenix, Arizona and has been freelance writing for local newspapers.  He is currently majoring in journalism at New Mexico State University. He has always been an avid animal lover and has two large bulldogs named Levi and Diesel as well as a German Shepard named Zeus. He currently resides in Las Cruces, New Mexico and is hoping to pursue his passion in sports writing.  You can e-mail Laz at lgomez@yourpetspace.info

Last year I reviewed a book for this site called The Not So Secret Life of Nimh, a book about a dumbo rat and rat care. Long ago, in a universe somewhat parallel to this one, the author sent me another book to review about a cat who enjoys art and experiences it in a unique way. This was a digital copy, which I saved to my computer and backed up onto a memory stick. Shortly afterward my computer died, as did its replacement. It has taken me until now to get things together, but I can finally review this cute little story of Gatsby the cat for you.

Cover for Gatsby’s Grand Adventures, Book 1. Story by Barbara Cairns, Illustrated by Eugene Ruble. Cover art by Eugene Ruble

There is magic in these pages, much like the magic of Blues Clues, the television show from Nick Junior, where Blue the dog and a human friend (either Steve or Joe) “skidoo” into a picture on the wall. In that new place they have traveled to, they are able to interact with the image, usually by talking to characters within the picture. Gatsby the cat has a similar power: his tail twitches, his nose itches and his haunches hitch before he leaps into a painting that is part of the art gallery he lives in. Each book is about a different painting. This first installment focuses on Winslow Homer’s “Snap the Whip.”

Art and Animal Behavior

Gatsby loves art and loves to jump in paintings. The story itself is cute, though there isn’t much purpose in it other than to teach the reader a little about the painting itself. Reading about Gatsby’s adventure, you can discover a few things about this particular work of art:

• The name of the painting- The title of the painting is clearly written three times within the story of Gatsby the cat. As a teacher, this is always an important thing for me to see. Repetition is how most of the youngest readers pick up those sometimes hard to remember details.

• Who painted the painting- The artist is mentioned three times in this story, all in the appropriate context as the creator of the work of art. Children reading this book also become accustomed to the way adults talk about art being “by” an artist or that the painting belongs “to” an artist, such as when Miss Annabelle says “My Winslow Homer painting is magically restored.” on the final page of the book.

“My Winslow Homer painting is magically restored.” Final image in Gatsby’s Grand Adventures, Book 1. Illustration by Eugene Ruble, used with author’s permission.

• Items within the painting- During one of Gatsby’s journeys into “Snap the Whip” he sees a mouse hiding behind a rock, then chases it through a school house. On another visit, he is chased by a dog into the woods. These things (the rock, schoolhouse and woods) can all be seen in the painting and can encourage conversation about the work of art with a young child. Readers can find the items in the painting and discuss them as a part of the setting.

• The action of the painting- In a way, I like the way this is described, but I also wish it were more about the painting and less about the imaginary adventure. To me, it felt as if the examination of movement was passed over for the story itself. As a teacher, I generally talk about what is happening in images both in books and in art. “What happened to that boy there?” “What is this child doing over here?” “Do they look like they are running or walking? “Why do you think they are holding hands?” I feel like the cat could have explored these things more before going on his multiple adventures into what COULD be happening in the painting, which I will discuss below. Don’t get me wrong, this was good, but I felt the two needed a little more balance.

• What COULD be in the painting- Using the imagination is an important part of any child’s development. Pretending is more than fun, it helps with reasoning skills, sequencing, and many other developmental milestones. This book about Homer’s painting certainly fulfills the need to use the imagination. Gatsby has one encounter after another with this painting and each time something new happens. He interacts with the boys, he chases a mouse, he is chased by a dog, but these things all happen away from the image itself, none of them are items or actions within the painting that you can actually see. You have to imagine what it would be like on the inside of the school house, you have to pretend that a dog could be chasing a cat through the woods, and so on. This brings a work of art to life in a child’s imagination, but I felt as if we went too far in this direction while I was reading. I found myself wondering about the painting more often than I was caught up in the action of what happened beyond it. As I said before, just a pinch more balance and I would have been thrilled with how the story came together.

“A huge dog bounded down the hill. The mouse darted into a hole.” Some of the imaginary action in the painting as described above. Illustration by Eugene Ruble, used with the author’s permission.

Cat Behavior

Now, I know this isn’t a site specifically dedicated to art and literature, so I want to spend a little time on the animals themselves. There isn’t too much to discuss in this department though, the dog chases the cat, and the cat chases the mouse. Both of these things are what you would expect in a short adventure picture book for young children. They provide speed to the storytelling and a purpose for the necessity of the cat’s return to the paintings each night, but there is little else here that is specific to these animals. I wasn’t really expecting anything else in an adventure story book, but I was surprised to discover that there was some animal behavior contained in the pages as I read through.

You do see some very small examples of cat behavior and body language, which I thought was a nice touch, but there were other things that could have been discussed that I felt were pushed aside. At one point one of the boys bothers Gatsby and pulls his tail. This was an excellent educational opportunity to show children the emotions of an animal that feels threatened or hurt by a human’s actions. Though the words read, “Gatsby pulled away. His whiskers flattened against his cheeks. His ears drew back.” nothing else is really said about the incident. The cat is afraid of being squashed, so he jumps away from them and out of the painting. I would love to have a more thought provoking reaction from the cat, who is a thinking entity within the story. If he has the opportunity to think that he will correct his mistakes, then he should have had the opportunity to reflect some on the pain or fear he felt when being bothered by the boys and associate those feelings with his physical reactions. Moments like that would maximize animal behavior and feelings relating to each other. This isn’t an animal behavior book, though, so having a mention at all gets a lot of extra points in my book.

“The biggest boy chased Gatsby and grabbed his tail.” Illustration by Eugene Ruble, used with the author’s permission.

Overall this is a cute story, with a quick running plot and some interesting ideas. It has colorful illustrations that can be busy, but not in a distracting or unpleasant way, and the story teaches some things about art and animal behavior. I think young readers will find his book educational and entertaining, but I think that to get the most out of it, a child should have an adult discuss the story with them as they read and after they have finished. There are many links provided on the back pages for further study of the painting which can help with your discussions and include “Snap the Whip” in some other aspects of your child’s life as both a piece of art and a part of history.

Story by Barbara Cairns

Illustrated by Eugene Ruble

Genre & Topics: Fiction, Art, Cats

Published in 2012 by Guardian Angel Publishing

16 pages, illustrated with drawn artwork

This book was a gift from the author in exchange for an honest review.

Mirrani Houpe, our Small Animal Editor, has had rats since she took home her first little boy once they both completed the second grade. Since that time she has owned, rescued and bred many kinds of rats, from many backgrounds. She may not be a vet, psychology major, or scientist, but her babies have her very well trained when it comes to how to care for them. She is constantly working with her family’s veterinarian to come up with new and innovative ways to love and care for the most often misunderstood rodent in the pet world. You can e-mail her at mirrani@yourpetspace.info

I had neighbors who had ferrets growing up and I never wanted to own one because they were stinky. This was my first misconception about ferrets. We got our first ferret, Loki, a little more than a year and a half ago and I fell in love instantly. He was so cute, loving, and not stinky at all. As soon as we got him I began researching everything that I could about ferrets and one thing I came across, where I believe a lot of first time ferret owners make their mistake, is that bathing too often actually makes ferrets stink more. They only need to bathed once a month at the most. Bathing them more frequently strips away the oils in their skin and they produce more to compensate, and it’s these excess oils that smell. Another cause of the stink is having an intact male, but generally you will not come across an intact ferret in the United States, and I believe de-sexing a ferret is required before they can be sold in a pet store. Don’t get me wrong, ferrets still have a very distinct musky smell, but a healthy, de-sexed ferret does not smell any more than a dog or cat. They may even smell less in my opinion, and I have actually come to like the smell of ferrets. You definitely get used to it.

Feeding Your Ferrets

About four months after we got Loki we adopted Thor. From what we know, someone got him as a gift for someone and they did not want him so they surrendered him to Petco. When we brought him home, within five minutes he had explosive diarrhea. Ferrets have very sensitive digestive tracts and stress can cause diarrhea, but this was something much worse. After taking him to the vet we discovered he had an intestinal infection and he was on antibiotics for 10 days.

After adopting Thor, I really began looking at the food I was feeding my ferrets. As sensitive as their digestive tracts are, Thor’s is much more so. Ferret food should have high protein (at least 35%), high fat (at least 15%), and low fiber (no more than 3%). It is also best for their main source of food to be low in moisture. Dry food is better for the health of their teeth. You should also read the actual ingredients. The more meat based ingredients in the first five, the better quality the food is. What I like to look for in food as well, mainly because of Thor’s digestive issues, is some kind of probiotics, such as lactobacillus acidiphilus (the bacteria found in yogurt). It is the same logic behind eating yogurt; they help the good bacteria population in the intestines to help digest food. You will also want as little carbohydrates (sugar) as possible in your ferret food. Too much sugar in the diet may lead to insulinomas, or cancer of the insulin producing cells of the pancreas. This is based on what I have read online from many different sources over the last two years and I am in no way a veterinarian or an expert in these matters, so I urge you to talk to your vet about such things before changing anything you do with your ferret, especially changing their diet. Not only did they go to school for many years to do their job, but they know your individual ferrets’ health better than anyone.

One of the most important pieces of advice I can give about food is this: make sure you are feeding at least two different foods to your ferret(s). This is for a couple of reasons, but most importantly it is so your ferret will be used to more than one type or brand of food just in case you run out of one type and do not have the means to replace it right away or the company decides to discontinue the food you are currently feeding. I recently ran into this problem. When I first got both of my ferrets they were eating Marshall’s Ferret Food (what they usually feed them at pet stores). Once we adopted Thor I switched them to 8 in 1 Ultimate Crunchy Diet food. IMPORTANT ADVICE: when you switch your ferret onto a new food, or just add new food, you must do so slowly, over a period of at least two weeks. You should mix a small amount of the new food in with the old food and gradually increase the new food to allow your ferrets’ sensitive digestive tract to adjust. If you switch or add a new food too quickly your ferret may get diarrhea.

In the case of Thor, I once fed them a new duck soup one night and it was too much too soon, which actually resulted in a bit of bloody diarrhea. More recently, I had been reading about having more than one ferret food as part of their diet and I was actually in the process of researching new food to add when I tried to order more of the 8 in 1 I discovered it was out of stock on Amazon. I went to the one pet store in town that I knew still sold it. They were out and said they were not going to be receiving any more of that food. When looking online I discovered that this company was discontinuing that particular food. I was panicking a little because I only had a couple of days’ worth of food left. I decided to buy a small bag of the Marshall’s Ferret Food because they both used to eat it and I figured this would cause the least upset. Just in case, I supplemented them with 1/8 teaspoon of low sugar yogurt while I switched them to Marshall’s and continued giving it to them until I switched them to their new food, which is now Sheppard and Greene Ferret Food. I know that there is a lot of debate online about what are quality ferret foods and the foods I have fed do not usually qualify as “high quality” but as long as your ferrets are healthy and the foods do not cause any adverse effects, in my opinion they are fine. It is the same as with any dog or cat food. Once again, consult your vet with any questions, concerns, or recommendations. I urge any ferret owner not to wait, like I did, and end up in a bind if you do not have the means to replace your ferret food right away.

Ferrets In Hot Weather

Ferrets are originally from Europe and are more inclined for colder weather. Living in Las Cruces, New Mexico is not ideal for a ferret and having good air conditioning is a must. However, problems do arise and the last two summers we have had our refrigerated air unit break down on us. Since we live in an apartment, we cannot do anything about this ourselves and we have to wait for the facilities to come and fix it. Sometimes that can take a few days, or even a week. The first summer that this happened I was not prepared and once again took to the internet to search for suggestions about how to keep my babies cool. Before I was able to look all of this up, I immediately put my ferrets in our closet, which they love exploring anyway, because our closets are always much cooler than the rest of the apartment. If it gets over 80 degrees ferrets can have a heat stroke and can even die. I took the top off their extra cage and filled the base with some cool (not cold!) water and let them explore it on their own, because my ferrets do not like to be forced into water. I also turned a storage tub on its side, placed a damp hand towel on the bottom of it, and placed it in a cool area. This is supposed to simulate a mud wallow and can help keep ferrets cool without them getting completely wet. I put a frozen bottle of water in a sock, and put it in their cage. I now keep two or three frozen water bottles on hand all the time, just in case. When experiencing a heat situation such as this, it is even more important to keep your ferrets hydrated. When they start getting over heated, they will eat less food, sleep more, and when they are awake they will stay very low to the ground. At this point I sometimes take that damp hand towel and wrap them in it for a bit to help cool them down. If your ferrets’ nose starts getting really dry, they begin vomiting, or they pass out seek veterinary attention immediately. I hope no one experiences this, which is why I cannot stress enough how important it is to be prepared and know your ferret, so you can see the signs of when they are in trouble.

Final Words

I really enjoyed writing this article and I love educating people on ferret care. If anyone has any specific questions about ferrets or would like me to go more in depth and write another article on a particular subject please email me at nicolesanchez710@gmail.com.

Nicole Sanchez is a new addition to our staff of writers. Nicole has a bachelor’s degree in Animal Science and is currently work at Mountain View Regional Medical Center. She has always loved animals and has cared for dogs, fish, turtles, hermit crabs, goats and more throughout her life. Two years ago Nicole and her fiancé got their first ferret and from there were hooked. Nicole has spent a lot of time learning about ferrets and trying to educate people who believe the mostly false stereotypes about these wonderful, highly intelligent creatures.

Budgie

Your First Bird

Birds make great pets. With their beautiful colors, wacky personalities, and high intelligence it’s no wonder you’re thinking about bringing home a birdy of your very own! Most people assume that birds are cute and easy caged pets but in reality that’s not the case. Birds, just like any other pet, have a tendency to make a mess, a desire to explore, and will even throw tantrums! So, before you take that final step to bring home a feathered friend, here are some things you’ll need to know.

Cockatiel

Bird Species

Did you know that there are currently over 14.3 million pet birds in America? Ranging everywhere from Toucans to pigeons, each different species will have their own special needs that you as their owner will need to meet, so it’s important to research what kind of bird you want before heading down to the local pet store. The top ten most popular species for pet birds are: Cockatiels, African Greys, Conjures, Macaws, Cockatoos, Amazon Parrots, Poicephalus Parrots, Pionus Parrots, and Quaker Parrots. All of these little guys are extremely different from one another, anywhere from size, to loudness, to special needs, so make sure you choose a species that will fit well into your home lifestyle!

Feeding

Fortunately there are some traits that most bird species share. For example, birds aren’t necessarily caged animals like a hamster or mouse; they need at least two hours of human interaction outside of their cage! And you can’t feed a bird on a seed diet alone! To prevent intestine diseases it’s important to look into the diet of the bird you choose and make sure to compare lots of food brands before deciding on what to feed your bird! I personally feed my bird Zupreem Pellets, because they give him the nutrients he needs!

African Grey Parrot

Lifespan

In general, the larger a bird is, the longer its lifespan will be. Cockatoos will live from 50 to 70 years old, and Macaws and African Grays are known to live even past that so before buying make sure that you’re prepared to have your bird for the rest of your life and maybe even past that! This is especially important because birds bond with one human for life! It’s extremely difficult for a bird if you decide that you don’t want it.

Behavior

Just like puppies, birds have a tendency to bite, and these bites can range from nibbling to being able to break skin. You can easily train your bird to not bite, but keep it in mind for when you first bring Tweety home.  Lastly, remember that your emotion will affect your birds.  If you’re upset they’ll be upset but when you’re happy you’ll both be happy!
Everyone knows that some birds, such as Parrots, can talk and mimic sounds, making them highly desirable pets. If you do end up with one of these birds remember that, just like a human child, it will take time for them to learn how to speak, starting with basic sounds and slowly becoming more advanced. However, even if not all birds can speak, all of them are definitely loud. Their screeching and yelling can go all hours of the day and night, so make sure you don’t mind a little noise and be sure to read up on how to train your bird to sleep through the night with tricks like the blanket method.

Where to Get Your First Bird
If you still want a little Woodstock of your own, the last thing you’ll need to think of is where to purchase them. First, keep in mind that you’ll most likely be purchasing your bird without knowing its gender, which, in order to determine, you must undergo a $50 dollar DNA blood test. The easiest option is to buy at a local pet store, but the smarter option is to buy from a breeder. Bird breeders commonly hand feed and hand raise the birds, making the bird much more friendly and sociable. They also tend to be less expensive than a pet store, with up to a $400 saving for your pocket. Or, like other animals, you can choose to open your home to a bird with a past, whose previous owner has either abandoned them or passed away.

Now that you know a bit more about what it takes to own a Polly of your own, I hope that you and your new family member fly happily into the sunset!

Lillianna Lopez, our Avian Editor, has been studying birds for four years and counting.
Ever since the age of three, Lillianna has been fascinated by animals.  In her life she has had Horses, Dogs, Cats, Birds, Guinea Pigs, and the occasional Millipede. Lillianna is known (and often yelled at) for taking in injured birds to try and help them back to health. She adores all animals and always loves to help anyone in need. Lillianna is currently a member of 4-H and participation in the dog project, and bird project.

Male Tiger Swallowtail.

Every year at this time, my class (along with undoubtedly thousands of other classrooms in the US) purchases a cup of caterpillars to raise and release. We do this to show the children the process of metamorphosis, but did you know that you don’t have to rely on a teacher to raise your own butterflies?

There are two ways that you can participate in this wondrous part of the natural world. First, you could buy a kit like I did or you could find your own caterpillars and raise them. Taking care of caterpillars and butterflies isn’t really that hard and releasing them into your garden is a rewarding feeling. This is especially true when you see a butterfly of the same species later and wonder, “Is that one of mine?”

I want to say here that I don’t typically agree with taking a wild animal and bringing it into the home unless it is absolutely necessary. In my opinion, forcing wild animals to become tame in any way should be discouraged since they need their natural instincts to survive and our interactions with them remove some of that instinct. It is a slightly different story with insects, however, because they are easily kept without much handling and you are increasing their numbers when you release them into the wild. If you have found a caterpillar or eggs on a plant from the garden, it is better to raise them and release them than spray the plants with pesticides that will kill them before they have a chance to mature. By taking them away from your garden and feeding them from the species specific plants that you purchased, you are saving the butterflies and saving your garden. In my case, I would rather save the caterpillar than have it be squashed by an eager child’s fingers in their excitement to pick it up and show it to me. Why not save that one caterpillar and help it on its way once it grows up?

What is possibly a Lined Ruby Tiger Moth caterpillar, found on a mountain trail.

Butterfly Supplies

Before you rush out to raise butterflies, you need to give some serious thought to how you are going to contain them. The old insect in a jar image comes to mind, but this is highly inappropriate, uncomfortable, and unhealthy for any creature you catch, especially butterflies. A caterpillar may not need too much room, but when it matures, it will have a wingspan that requires more space than your jar can provide.

Most classrooms and science museums get their butterfly supplies from Insect Lore. This is a wonderful site that offers all types of educational tools as well as live insects to raise and release. They have kits available for Painted Lady butterflies, ladybugs, ants, and praying mantes. (Yes, that’s the plural for praying mantis, and if you have never watched them hatch out of their case, it is really something to see!) I have both their “butterfly garden” and “butterfly pavilion” pop up nets and I must say that I prefer the pavilion when it comes to the health of the butterflies and also for the purposes of viewing. The “garden” is a small size, about a foot tall and doesn’t give your butterflies much room to fly around, especially if you intend to reuse this with other, larger types of butterflies found around your home. The “pavilion” is about two feet tall and allows room for you to decorate their habitat in a more natural way while leaving them plenty of space to fly. I also find that most people enjoy butterflies more when they are in a larger habitat. Both of these have a handle that allows for hanging from the ceiling or other location, but if you put a potted plant inside, please do NOT hang your habitat! The habitat is not stable or sturdy enough to hang with any weighted object inside and this could also harm your butterflies if the plant falls over.

Butterfly habitats from Insect Lore, The “butterfly garden” is on the left and the “butterfly pavilion” is on the right.

You don’t have to buy from Insect Lore, however. The Educational Science online nature store has a wide variety of habitats to choose from, including an abundance of live kits, outdoor tents, specialty equipment, and host plants. This was a site I discovered while searching for caterpillar rearing supplies and though I have not yet placed an order, I fully intend to. Their variety has simply made my heart sing, especially since they offer a range of larger tents and enclosures for raising happier, healthier butterflies. For someone who intends to raise local caterpillars, this is an important factor, because a butterfly requires at LEAST twice the space of their wingspan when they emerge from their cocoon. That measurement is three dimensional, in every direction. If you find a Luna moth, you are looking at a nearly five inch wing span, so you will need ten inches all around. Once your moth or butterfly starts to fly, they are certainly happier with more room to do it in. You might want to consider something even larger than that if you are going to keep them for any length of time before you release them. Whatever habitat you choose, once it is in your possession you can begin your quest for caterpillars.

This female Swallowtail Butterfly was hit by a car in the parking lot of Eno River State Park in North Carolina and did not survive.

Caterpillars By Mail

One of the two ways to raise butterflies is to get a kit by mail. Both Insect Lore and the Educational Science store offer live kits, where caterpillars are shipped to you. Insect Lore guarantees that three out of five butterflies will grow to maturity, while Educational Science guarantees only that the caterpillars shipped to you will be alive when they get there. In nature not every butterfly survives to maturity and there is not really any way to avoid this in captivity either. It is just how the world works. I will say that in all of my years of raising butterflies, I have only had to report one unsuccessful maturing of butterflies to Insect Lore and have never lost a “wild” caterpillar that my children found. Butterfly rearing may be simple enough, but it is precise, and if you do it by the book, you should have very good results.

Be aware, you may also have a mature butterfly emerge with an unusual deformity. My class once raised a Painted Lady whose wings came in backward on the right side. The top wing was where the bottom wing should have been, and vice versa. We named this butterfly Wilbur and kept it for its entire life span because it could not fly and releasing it into the wild would have been sending it to a cruel life where it could not get to any food or protect itself. Keeping Wilbur was an amazing opportunity for the children to interact with a butterfly up close without worry of it getting away. “He” wandered our classroom, walking around from surface to surface, “shared” our lunches and was basically the puppy of butterflies; so, not all mishaps with shipped larvae are tragic experiences.

When you place an order for caterpillars from any store, check the delivery date CAREFULLY. Someone MUST be in the delivery location to receive the caterpillars in order to place them indoors, in climate controlled conditions. Caterpillars are typically shipped in plastic cups or containers, which are put in a shipping box and mailed to you. Imagine being put in a hamster ball, then dropped into a cardboard box, and finally left in a metal or plastic mailbox while the hot sun beats down on you. This is what your caterpillars will endure if they are left alone on shipping. I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to arrange delivery at a time when you can care for them right away.

Example of cups sent from Insect Lore, each containing five larvae.

Please note: My current experience of raising butterflies by mail is only with Insect Lore, so from this point onward my description of shipped larvae rearing is based solely on that knowledge.

Once you have your caterpillars, set the cup in a safe location, away from air vents and direct sunlight. Your caterpillars should come with care instructions that I highly recommend you follow if you are a novice. There are those who order cups and remove the caterpillars into a habitat that provides fresh food rather than the processed food that comes in the cup with them. I however, do not recommend this unless you have expert experience in handling butterflies. There are parasites and other issues to worry about when raising caterpillars and the cup that they are in is a secure environment that protects them from that without any hassle to you, their caregiver. Once they have all made their cocoons, you may open the lid and transfer them to your butterfly habitat in the way described in your kit’s instructions.

When I place my cocoons from the cup into the habitat, I generally do not include the butterfly’s host plant, but leave the structure open and free of anything that could harm the butterflies while they are emerging. It is only once all of the butterflies have emerged and their wings are dry and ready to use that I introduce the host plant and a food source to their environment. If you have one butterfly that emerges well before the others and you are worried that they will be waiting a long time for food, you can introduce it, but keep a careful eye that the emerging butterflies do not become stuck or trapped in the food source while their wings are drying.

NEVER touch a butterfly when it is emerging from the cocoon or for three hours afterward. Remove the empty cocoons only when the last butterfly has had two or three hours to dry its wings. Once all of your butterflies have emerged, you can release them, or introduce a host plant in hopes that they will breed. More on that later.

Painted Lady butterfly sitting on one of their host plants, a Hollyhock.

Caterpillars From Home

The most important thing about raising a caterpillar that you found somewhere around your home is identifying what type of caterpillar you have and providing it with the proper food. If you find an egg on a leaf, it is a fairly safe bet that the mother butterfly laid it there because this is the host plant and you already have the proper diet displayed for you. Now, simply grab more leaves from whatever plant you found the egg on and place them in your habitat. (Or get one of the special bags or nets to put over the plant that will contain the caterpillars, but allow the plant to grow.) If you find a live caterpillar, always identify it and research what types of food it needs. That caterpillar could be traveling from one plant to another and the leaf or branch it is on does not necessarily represent the type of food it eats.

When it comes to identifying anything for our classroom, I use the website Discover Life. I prefer this site, because it uses images and selective sorting to help narrow down your search. Just click the “ID Nature Guides” link at the top, find the creature or plant that you are searching for, and you are on your way to identification. For caterpillars, you can select main body color, main body pattern, hair density, and distinct features. Sometimes your caterpillar is hard to find, but don’t give up the search. If you reach a point where you simply can’t identify what you have, ask a specialist or go out to where you found the caterpillar and grab one of every leaf and blade of grass that you can find, then place them all in the habitat as an offering. Take note of what the caterpillar eats and provide more of that food, removing the rest.

A Luna moth caterpillar, identified using the Discover Life website and the Butterflies and Moths of North America site: Butterflies and moths

You need to research your caterpillar carefully. Not only do you have to give it the right kind of food, but you also need to understand how it will create its chrysalis. We are all familiar with butterflies who hang upside down and scrunch their bodies into tight, hard cases. However, some caterpillars will instead glue a leaf around themselves which acts as a cocoon. If you assume which type of caterpillar you have incorrectly,  you may check on it one day to discover that it has made the best of a bad situation and wrapped itself in whatever it can find, which usually means it will not survive. If you choose to take a caterpillar from the wild, always research it thoroughly, not only in the larvae stage, but in the butterfly stage as well. You need to be certain that you are providing it with the proper materials for metamorphosis, but also the right diet and living space throughout its entire life span. If you want to make it more comfortable in its habitat, you can also research the butterfly’s host plant and provide that as a comfort object, which will reduce the stress your butterfly feels being completely exposed in an empty net. The host plant will also help you, if you decide to try and breed your butterflies.

What to Feed Them

A Painted Lady, spreading its wings to enjoy the warm sun and preparing to eat.

It is fairly easy to feed your butterflies, no matter where they come from or what type they are. You may start by:

• Making a sugar water mixture that is one part sugar to four parts boiling water (or follow the instructions in your kit) and place a bright sponge into a dish of this mixture. Change daily.
• Providing cut oranges, grapefruit, peaches or strawberries. If your butterflies do not eat one type of this, try another type. Remember to cut fresh fruits daily.
• Using butterfly feeders available online for purchase that will most likely come with a recipe of their own.
• Remember: Butterflies eat more when they feel content and warm. To encourage your butterflies to eat and to give them a happier existence overall, take your habitat outside for a few hours, so they can enjoy the sun and fresh air

Time For Babies

Once you know the host plant of your butterfly, you can add that to the habitat when they have emerged and their wings are dry, but the biggest part of breeding is obviously having at least one male and one female. Some butterflies (like the Easter Tiger Swallowtail) are easy to identify, but others (such as the Painted Lady) aren’t as simple. The only way to know what you have is to research them. Find pictures, compare, ask an expert, or just keep your butterflies together for a day or two and see how they react to each other. If you find two butterflies back to back, seeming to be glued together at the tail end, you have a male and a female.

The white-green dots on this Hollyhock leaf are the tiny eggs laid by a Painted Lady butterfly.

Most butterflies don’t take too long to mate and lay eggs, so within a day or two they should pair off and within another day or two they should start looking for a place to lay their eggs. Again, I have only witnessed this process with Painted Lady butterflies, so I am now describing their behavior.

When a female is ready to lay her eggs, she wanders around a leaf, seeming to frantically rub it with her front legs. This is how she “tastes” the leaf to be certain it is the right kind for her children to eat. Once you start to see this shift in behavior, pay close attention to where she is in your habitat and take note of where she is putting the eggs, so that you can keep an eye on them.

Keep in mind, breeding butterflies is NOT easy. First of all, butterflies do not inbreed well, so the chances of the eggs maturing and providing you with happy, healthy caterpillars are smaller if you have gotten your original batch from the same source. This could be an online catalog or from the same location in your neighborhood. Secondly, there are parasites that can harm your caterpillars, which is why customers are asked not to open containers of caterpillars to re-home them on their arrival. Finally, it can just be too darn hard to contain them. I have only managed to breed our Painted Ladies three times in the many years that I have been ordering them. Once, we had so many eggs that hatched we were looking at housing an uncountable number of caterpillars… until they all escaped their enclosure. I have never successfully raised one to full size, however that doesn’t stop me from letting them lay an egg or two for the children to see before I let the butterflies go to find more suitable arrangements for their future offspring. There are habitats that you can purchase that are more suitable for raising freshly hatched caterpillars and I would highly recommend talking to an expert if you decide you would like to give your little ones the best chance for survival in captivity.

Painted Lady caterpillars one day after hatching. These are barely the size of a dot made by a ballpoint pen.

Raising butterflies is a rewarding and wonderful experience for young and old alike. With the age of the internet, it is easier than ever to provide a suitable habitat to ensure that the species you find will be as happy and healthy as possible while you watch them grow, mature, and change. If you handle your butterflies as little as possible and always use host plants that have not been treated with pesticides, you are giving your new friends a great start. Watching the metamorphosis of these beautiful creatures is both exciting and rewarding and I wish you success in your new adventures together.

Mirrani Houpe, our Small Animal Editor, has had rats since she took home her first little boy once they both completed the second grade. Since that time she has owned, rescued and bred many kinds of rats, from many backgrounds. She may not be a vet, psychology major, or scientist, but her babies have her very well trained when it comes to how to care for them. She is constantly working with her family’s veterinarian to come up with new and innovative ways to love and care for the most often misunderstood rodent in the pet world. You can e-mail her at mirrani@yourpetspace.info

Someone once told me that opinions are like noses: everyone has one, they’re all different and no one is better than another.  I’ve found that mostly to be true.  In the world of pets, also, we know that each one is unique, even if certain things about their breed or training or age are similar.  It’s tempting, then, to think that once we draw a few conclusions about a pet we have the whole picture–when that can actually be pretty far from the truth.  Dave and I see changes in the pets we serve on a daily basis: new things we never realized about who they are, how they react to other pets and us. Essentially, one can never know all there is to know–because pets, like people, change and grow.

In the same way, we have seen that sometimes clients think they know all we have to offer–but they are surprised when we mention one thing or another we do.  So I thought I’d take the opportunity here to write about:

Things You Might Not Know About Your Pet Space

We care for all types of pets in the home. That includes:

• Cats
• Birds
• Ferrets and other small pets
• Horses and other livestock
• Reptiles

We care for pets in their homes that are:

• Unsocialized
• Have a low immune system
• Are older or fragile
• Are currently fighting illness
• Have a severe injury
• Are very shy

We provide transport.

Dave and I actually live on the opposite side of Las Cruces from our facility, so we’re back and forth from east to west a couple of times each day.  So it’s very easy for us to transport your pet to/from:

• Our facility–for daycare or boarding
• Your vet–for routine procedures
• The groomer or dog wash
• The airport–we can pickup your arriving pet or place your pet on a plane if it needs to join you elsewhere.

Often, our fee is only whatever the distance is off our usual route, not even the entire way!

Also, just some of our unique features are:

• A 6,000 square foot temperature controlled indoor play space.
• Cage/kennel free sleeping areas for pets with a daily naptime.
• An Off Leash Play and Temperament Assessment for every new dog entering our facility.
• Staff coached by certified trainers in dog body language and pet CPR and First Aid
• Staff on site twenty-four hours with boarded pets at the appropriate ratio of dogs to people to keep them safely supervised.
• A Fit Paws exercise program for dogs, offered twice weekly.
• Visiting providers that offer pet reiki, chiropractic treatment, massage and reflexology.
• Membership in the International Boarding and Pet Services Association, which requires all member facilities to adhere to its Code of Conduct concerning best practices for the pets in their care.

Would you like to know more about how our employees are trained and certified? Stop by YPS and let us show you the difference certification makes in the care of your pet!  

Get to know us better–you’ll be surprised what you find.

Your Pet Space, 3920 W. Picacho Ave, Las Cruces NM, 575-652-4404

Joy Jones, Publisher, is also the Vice President of Your Pet Space, a cage free dog boarding facility serving the greater Las Cruces, NM area. She is also a syndicated columnist whose book Indigo was recently published. When not working at Your Pet Space, she writes a metaphysical column, as well as humor. You can e-mail her at joy@yourpetspace.info as well as follow Your Pet Space on Facebook.

Skif and Leanne, the best of friends.

A Problem Emerges

else’s selfish decision forced me to put my best friend through a long,

painful surgery, because it truly is indescribable.

Ser Skiffington’s x-rays show the damage that the declawing process had caused internally.

Deplorable Declawing

For the readers that are unfamiliar with this subject, declawing (or

onychectomy) has been recently redefined by the AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Association) as an amputation. Specifically, it is the amputation of the last digit in the paw. Cats are “digitigrade” which is simply a fancy way of saying that cats walk on their

toes. When a cat goes through a declaw procedure, it can take months for

recovery. The cat has to relearn how to balance, how to walk, and how to

shift their weight when jumping. Humans, although we don’t walk on our

toes, often have the same difficulties if even one toe is amputated from a

foot. Our toes, much like a cat’s, are essential to our physiology- the way

we’re built and work. Along with a shift in the way they hold themselves and

get around, there are other complications as well.

Some cats experience pain from bone shards left behind by a careless

doctor, like my Skif. Shards of bone left behind leads to secondary surgery for

the majority of cats, meaning more costs for the owner. After

going through this painful procedure, many cats begin to associate their litter boxes

with the pain in their paws, and begin to seek other, softer places to relieve

themselves. This is one of the top reasons declawed cats are abandoned in

shelters. Still, other cats can grow aggressive due to chronic pain and turn to

biting to defend themselves from an over enthusiastic human (another

reason for abandonment). As they grow older, declawed cats are also more

susceptible to developing arthritis because of their shifted physiology.

Skif showing symptoms of irritation or pain in his paws.

Pawsome Alternatives

If you or someone you know has a cat and is contemplating going

through with a declawing, I beg you to reconsider. There are many

alternatives to this awful procedure, including a product called Soft Paws that

acts as a cover for a cat’s claws. It falls off naturally with the growth of the

cat’s nails and can be reapplied easily. There are many variations of this product, which can be put on by your veterinarian, or at home. They generally last four to six weeks, and packs available in stores generally contain enough claw caps to last four to

six months.

Lyra and Ser Skiffington lounge on the couch together like loving siblings.

Another product available to cat owners is a furniture safe, pet

friendly, double sided tape called Sticky Paws. The method behind this

product is texture aversion. Cats often do not enjoy the stickiness of tape (or

even tin foil) on their paws, and learn to avoid the area. This method works

well when combined with encouraging the cat to scratch on an appropriate

surface, like scratching posts. Some owners may need to explore different

scratching post options, as cats can differ in their preference when

scratching. Some like a nice tall stretch whereas others like to scratch horizontally on

carpets and other materials on the floor. Finding your cat’s

preference is done by simply observing the areas and objects they love to scratch on the most. Catnip is an excellent way to encourage your cat to explore and

try out the new scratching posts. Sometimes multiple approved scratching

areas are needed in a house, in order to explore some different textures and

find one that your cat loves. My cats, although declawed, still retain their

scratching behavior, and often scratch on their cat tree. Some cats are not

interested in catnip, so treats and wet food also work well as a reward when

your cat uses the desired scratching area. With a few weeks of

consistent training and encouragement, you’ll be able to see a shift in behavior from

scratching furniture, to scratching the cat posts.

Skif’s deep gaze. Perhaps he’s trying to urge cat owners to not declaw their pets by attempting to stare into their souls? Or, maybe he’s just photogenic.

A Reminder: Scratching

Scratching is a natural behavior exhibited by cats in order to maintain

the health of their claws. It is also a way to deposit their scent, claiming ownership of

their surroundings and communicating with other pets in the home. It is up to us

as humans and caretakers of our furry companions to keep them safe and

healthy by exploring the safest way to redirect these “undesirable” behaviors,

rather than taking the “easy” way out. Speaking from personal experience,

declawing is not easy and it’s not quick. The simplest way to avoid

consideration for declawing is to start early with your cats. When you bring a

new kitten home (or even an adult cat) introduce them to the area or objects

that you’re fine with them scratching at. Use catnip, treats, and toys to

encourage interaction with the objects.

So here is a final plea from me, from Skif, and from all kitties. For your sake and

theirs, explore options before turning to a major, and unnecessary, surgery

to “fix” something that only comes natural to your kitty.

Leanne Lucero, First Aid and CPR Certified Dog Handler, holds a Bachelors degree in Animal Science with an emphasis in companion animals from NMSU, and spent a semester as an intern with Cloud K-9 dog training, learning positive training and handling methods. She lives with two cats, Ser Skiffington and Lyra, who inspire her to continue learning about canine and feline behavior.

Some weeks ago I was on my lunch break and found a craving to play a game called Life from Deepak Chopkra’s Leela, in which you swim a little creature around a pond, connecting small areas of light as you go. It was exactly the soothing kind of experience I needed for that hour, so I searched the online stores to see if something similar was available for my tablet and discovered a game called Zen Koi , which I fell in love with. The experience made me wonder how many people out there were actually interested in having fish-themed games.

Being a lover of fish and a game fanatic, I have accumulated several types of fish-themed games in recent years, mostly in a desperate attempt to simulate having pet fish when I couldn’t keep live ones. I thought this collection might just make someone’s day, so I have decided to review these games here at Your Pet Space. Some of these are strictly virtual fish programs, some have a little adventure to them, some require thought or strategy, but they all have one thing in common: fish.

Zen Koi by Landshark Games

Available for download at the App Store and Google Play for free.

Graphics quality: Smooth, cartoon-style. Simplistic, yet beautiful.

Skills needed to play: The ability to sort objects by type and poke at them with a finger.

Basic gameplay: You are given a random koi egg to start with, which hatches into your very own koi. Your fish comes with a specific list of little swimming creatures needed in order to grow. You swim your fish around by tapping on the screen or dragging your finger from one area to the next. As your fish grows, it is able to breed and a wild fish will eventually appear on your screen. Follow that fish and you make a new egg that has the traits of the parents. You then grow your koi and help it on the path to “ascension,” where it will become a dragon and is no longer playable.

Object: The object is to collect every kind of fish available by breeding your one fish to the wild fish.  At the same time you are collecting every kind of dragon.

How does it compare to having real fish?: You feed them a certain diet and you breed them to get unique color patterns, but there isn’t much in the way of actual fish interaction, even for pond fish. I would give this a three out of five on the virtual fish-keeping scale.

Personal opinion: This is a great game for mindless relaxing. It really only appeals to the types of people who like meditative games that don’t really have much purpose to them. The graphics are beautiful and the game occasionally adds new styles of fish for “purchase.” These purchases are made with pearls that you earn by ascending your koi, accomplishing breeding tasks, or watching videos. The video watching is optional, but you can only watch around 20 videos a day, which means you earn 20 pearls a day if you do this. While playing the game, a small box will pop up at the bottom offering you the chance to earn pearls through videos. If you don’t want to do it, just tap the ? icon and that box will hide away under it. Though the ? icon will pulse, it isn’t really disruptive to game play, although I play on a tablet and it may be different on a smartphone.

Endless Ocean by Akira

Available for Nintendo Wii: This game is no longer sold, so prices may vary among used game sellers.

Graphics quality: Undersea graphics are amazing! People are your typical generic CG, but it’s the fish we’re after, right?

Skills needed to play: You really need to be able to read when you start out. However, this is the kind of game where you can follow the prompts or just swim around, making reading not entirely necessary.

Basic game play:  You are a diver in the tropical seas who is trying to learn about and help the animals of the ocean. You spend your days and nights with all kinds of fish and can befriend and train dolphins, who may swim with you. There are challenges available allowing you to take photos of certain fish during a dive. You can also take customers on a custom dive experience. If you don’t want to do anything at all, you can park your butt in the deck chair on your boat and just watch the world while you listen to the water. There is no fighting, you don’t die and respawn, and there are no time limits to anything. This is beach life at its best and you get to spend unlimited time with natural-looking sea life! As an added bonus, you can connect to wi-fi and swim with your other friends who play the game.

Object: There is a story embedded in this game about finding a special animal. You can play through to that point, which is the end of the game, or you can do whatever you want to do. As you meet and interact with new fish and animals, you learn more about them. This aspect of the game makes it a very educational experience, as well as a relaxing one.

How does it compare to having real fish?:  When I went snorkeling in Hawaii, the first thought that came to my mind was, “Oh my God! I’m inside Endless Ocean!” The experience is that real, at least for an inexperienced diver like me.

Personal opinion: I absolutely love this game and play it when I want to relax, unwind or just because I want something to do that won’t take an age. You can start and stop whenever you like, so it is the perfect game for either long periods or fifteen minute spurts. I seem to recall that once you finish the “great discovery,” the game is over and you have to start new again, unlike in the sequel, which I will cover next.

Endless Ocean: Blue World by Akira

Available for Nintendo Wii. This game is no longer sold, so prices vary among used game sellers.

Graphics quality: I can’t say enough about how realistic these games are. The Endless Ocean experience is amazing when it comes to lifelike gameplay for fish. People are still your typical CG humans, but again, this is all about the fish.

Skills needed to play: There is a fair amount of reading in this game, especially if you want to learn about the creatures and complete the many types of challenges. If you choose to just swim around and ignore all that stuff you may do so once you complete the basic training.

Basic gameplay: You are a diver who travels all around the world to help the animals of the ocean. You learn about various fish and animals by interacting with them. In this version you also collect artifacts for your treasure book. You still train dolphins, but there is more variety to the training and you can even put on shows for customers. You also receive guided dive requests, photo contest requests, and treasure dive requests as you help a scientist take care of her aquarium.

Object: You are helping a girl and her grandfather locate a treasure in a temple, while learning about and healing sick fish along the way. This sequel is a little more in depth than its predecessor and it continues on past the actual final goal. This feature allows you to play as your character for an unlimited amount of time without having to create a new save game.

How does it compare to having real fish?: If the graphics in the first game were good, these are even better, making it an incredibly beautiful virtual diving experience. The interactions with animals are also slightly improved from the first version, so it is much more like you are actually with them.

Personal opinion: I loved Endless Ocean when we got it, but when we found Blue World I completely dropped the original game for this version. I particularly liked that you can continue on past the end of the game and that there are more things to do in this version like the treasure hunt. Now you can also take care of fish from all around the world at the same time instead of having just one large tank, making the aquarium a much more complex experience. Customization has improved as well, since the public will tell you what they want to see and you can cater to their needs. You can get a pet dog and settle by the campfire to watch the waves under the palm trees, lie back in a hammock, play a guitar, or star gaze. The photography challenges are graded and the more money you earn the more customizable your experience will be. Overall, this is the better of the two games, by far.

Insaniquarium by Flying Bear Entertainment and PopCap Games

Available for download to computer or on disc, for $9.99 and under.

Graphics quality:  This game utilizes a silly cartoon style of graphics and animation, which is good because when the “aliens” come to eat your fish, it isn’t going to be all blood and guts. The animated fish are cute and the shading makes them pop from the screen. There is some depth to the background, but the fish don’t swim in the background, they are all right at the front. The colors are bright and beautiful, so it is really very artistic in a way.

Skills needed to play: This is a game that you really need multitasking skills for. You start out slow, but as you make progress in each level, things can get a little hectic. I have also found it much easier to use a mouse when playing this game, because you have to be quick and a mouse can facilitate that need.

Basic gameplay:  Buy a fish and place it in your tank.  Start feeding it and eventually it will grow big enough to poop money. Collect the money and buy more fish, but watch out for the aliens who come and try to eat them. When you have enough money you can buy a part of a pet egg. Three parts will give you a new pet and take you to the next level. Each pet has a special task, some pick up coins, some protect your fish. There are cheats and special hidden items within the game (Like naming a fish Santa will turn it into a Christmas fish that plays random carols.)

Object:  Keep your fish alive and collect as much money as you can to move on to each tank.

How does it compare to having real fish?:  Totally unrealistic. This is an adventure game and it’s a crazy one! The point of Insaniquarium is to make having the fish an adventure. It can really get the blood pumping too, so it’s not a calm or relaxing afternoon listening to water and watching creatures swim peacefully along.

Personal opinion: This is one of my old go-to games for when I want something with fish, but something fast and furious as well. I like that you can find the cheats and create new experiences that way. I also like that you can have your tank set to screen saver mode and watch your fish with no interaction and no worry of their starving to death.

There are a lot of games out there like this one, such as Feeding Frenzy, but I prefer the play of this game. I confess I haven’t played the others, but I have seen Feeding Frenzy played and that style of dashing your one fish around doesn’t suit my type of fish gameplay style.

Fantasy Aquarium World by CoreSoft and Destineer

Available for Wii: Could be found as a used game for various prices.

Graphics quality: The tanks themselves are beautiful. The fish are of a realistic nature with a semi-cartoonish face. I wouldn’t say the fish were of the quality of Endless Ocean, but they do come fairly close. Don’t get your hopes up about the sea horses.

Skills needed to play: You must be able to read. You must also have patience, because this is true tank keeping.

Basic gameplay: This is a virtual aquarium. No monsters, no playful rubbing of heads to make friends. These fish live in a tank that grows algae and collects waste that you must keep clean. You also have to feed the fish proper diet and keep the ph and temperature at just the right levels.

Object: There are challenges in this game that you can follow, but the basic object is the same in all of them; Keep your fish happy and healthy. Then you can just sit back and enjoy looking at your virtual aquarium.

How does it compare to having real fish?:  I don’t think I have seen a better virtual tank so far. It collects waste that must be cleaned, algae that must be wiped off the sides and so on. The decorations, gravel and side panel can all be changed to suit your fish and your own taste. I hadn’t played in a while, so I revisited the game for this review and the health of the fish I had were all at zero. After a tank cleaning it started to go up however, so I don’t think the fish actually die. My seahorse was 1,782 days old! (And lives by itself, which, by the way, shouldn’t happen, so not that realistic all the time.)

Personal opinion:  There is no adventure here. If you can’t keep a fish tank but want the experience of having one, get this game. If you want to teach your kids how to take care of a tank before getting the real thing, you can certainly use this as a training tool. It’s mostly just for looks. Even the feeding can be automated.

The fish games that I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing each bring their own unique features to the table but they all share one common premise; the love for fish and sea creatures.

Mirrani Houpe, our Small Animal Editor, has had rats since she took home her first little boy once they both completed the second grade. Since that time she has owned, rescued and bred many kinds of rats, from many backgrounds. She may not be a vet, psychology major, or scientist, but her babies have her very well trained when it comes to how to care for them. She is constantly working with her family’s veterinarian to come up with new and innovative ways to love and care for the most often misunderstood rodent in the pet world. You can e-mail her at mirrani@yourpetspace.info