Alternative Therapies for Horses: Part II

In my previous article, we looked at the three most common alternative therapies for horses: acupuncture, chiropractic and equine sports massage. Here we look at two more very different types of treatments, Equine Reiki and Equine Hydrotherapy, what they are, and how they could benefit your horse.

A happily bonded horse and owner.

Equine Reiki

What is Reiki?

Reiki originated in Japan over 2000 years ago. It means “universal life energy” in Japanese. It is a holistic method of energy healing and can be used for the treatment of physical, emotional and mental conditions.

While it is used mainly on humans, it is fast becoming a highly recommended and useful alternative therapy for horses, complementing traditional veterinary care and treatment.

Equine reiki is a treatment carried out by using specific hand positions, transferring healing energy to certain energy points in the body, known as chakras. It is a gentle and non-intrusive therapy and is very safe to use. 

When to use Equine Reiki

When a horse is healthy, his energy flows through his body like an electric current. When a chakra becomes blocked, it interferes with that flow. A variety of reasons can cause these blockages such as injuries, illness, trauma, training issues, emotional problems and dietary changes.

When there is an imbalance in the horse’s energy, he shows signs of pain, stress, anxiety, listlessness, or too much energy, along with problems in behavior.

Lovely horse possibly interested in receiving some reiki.

Horses are very sensitive and react much more quickly than humans do to the Reiki energy, thus, they respond very effectively to treatment.

The benefits of Reiki for your horse are:

  • Health – Reiki can help keep your horse healthy, speed up the healing process for illnesses and injuries and even helps when your horse is dying, making the transition between life and death a peaceful one.
  • Emotional Problems – When a horse has suffered from abuse, neglect or a major accident, Reiki helps to release and heal those emotions.
  • Behavioural Issues – Reiki can contribute to reducing stress and anxiety levels with horses that are nervous or have stable or ridden vices.
  • Improves movement – Reiki can assist in improving the horse’s suppleness and enhance the action of the gaits.

Horses often mirror the emotions of their owner. It is, therefore, a good idea for both horse and owner to have Reiki sessions together, building a better relationship and partnership.

Who should carry out Reiki?

Many holistic veterinarians use Reiki to help their patients. You can also find a Reiki Equine Practitioner in your area. Level Three, Equine Master, is the highest qualification.

Practitioners are not regulated or licensed. It is a useful skill that you can also learn yourself either by attending training classes or completing a home study course. Always remember, though, that Equine Reiki is not a replacement for traditional veterinary treatment.

A calm horse is best for reiki therapy.

Reiki should always be carried out on the horse in a peaceful and quiet environment. It is different from other therapies as it relies on the horse being a willing partner if it is to be successful.

The practitioner will always “offer” Reiki to the horse before commencing treatment. Horses will often offer the parts of their bodies that need healing.

Treatment consists of applying the hands on or above each chakra for 5 to 10 minutes. Sometimes the horse will decide that the treatment for that area is finished by moving away and then return for more a few moments later.

When the horse is happy with the treatment, you will see him relax and look sleepy. A session usually takes between 30 and 60 minutes or when the horse moves away, indicating he has had enough.

Results tend to be noticeable after about three sessions.

Equine Hydrotherapy

What is equine hydrotherapy?

Water has long been used on horses for centuries due to its multitude of healing properties.

Cold sea water especially, due to the high amounts of salt content, has an anti-inflammatory effect which enhances healing and protects against injury. Three time Grand National Winner, Red Rum, who had a lingering foot problem, regularly benefited from training on the beach.

Equine Hydrotherapy, therefore, is the appliance of water to promote healing following an injury and can also aid and maintain the fitness of the horse.

Types used include:

  • Cold hosing
  • Swimming
  • Water treadmills
  • Equine spas

When to use equine hydrotherapy

Equine hydrotherapy benefits many injuries and ailments in horses which include:

  • Tendon injuries
  • Ligament damage
  • Concussion
  • Sore shins
  • Fractures and splints
  • Infection of legs
  • Bruising
  • Swellings
  • Desmitis
  • Arthritis
  • Hoof injuries
  • Open wounds and skin infections
  • Windgall
  • Laminitis
  • Stiffness and soreness
  • Post-race/competition strain

Cold hosing

One of the oldest methods used, cold hosing is a very basic form of equine hydrotherapy treatment but it is one of the effective methods.

When a horse acquires an injury, cold hosing the afflicted area tends to draw heat out of the tissues and reduces increased blood flow, swelling, and bleeding. It also offers a temporary pain relief. The hose can be used on any part of the horse’s body since it is long and mobile.

You should allow the water to run over the injured point for twenty minutes. This should be the first course of action if your horse obtains an injury from a kick, cut, bump or bruise. How often you continue to cold hose depends on the injury and the advice of your veterinarian.

Swimming

Swimming involves using all parts of the body without putting pressure on the back or the limbs and is an excellent form of exercise, improving the strength of the cardiovascular system.

Other benefits include:

  • Treatment for horses with tendon, ligament and joint injuries
  • Improved respiration
  • Improved circulation
  • Increased flexibility of the horse’s range of movement
  • Improved balance of horse teaching them to swim in a straight line
  • Does not cause concussion to limbs
  • Is a change to horses as part of their training program

However, despite the advantages, there are times when a horse shouldn’t swim. Too much swimming can cause sore backs and problems in stifle area due to the way the horse carries itself i.e. head raised and back hollow. These times include:

  • Horses with stifle or hock injuries should not swim because movement of the joints in water could cause further damage
  • If your horse has a skin conditions
  • Horses that have respiratory conditions or are heavy bleeders should not swim

Water treadmill

Water treadmills provide less risk to a horse than swimming does, as they provide a variation of both the water height and speed. They are, therefore, much more adaptable for different injuries, including horses with back or stifle issues. Horses with open wounds or stitches, shouldn’t use them.

A horse is worked on a water treadmill in walk or trot, providing an excellent cardiovascular workout, building up muscle without imposing stress on the feet and legs. The water treadmill also helps the horse to drive with his back end, encouraging the horse to take a longer stride than when working on land, making the hind-quarters stronger.

Equine Spa

The equine spa combines the two effects of seawater and cold hosing by maintaining a low temperature of between 2°and 4°C (35°and 40°F) with a high amount of salt.

The cold temperature helps to reduce heat and inflammation of the legs, with water levels varied depending on the type of injury.

The salt water assists in drawing out infections, speeding up the healing process.

The spa is ideal for injuries to:

  • Tendons
  • Ligaments
  • Hooves
  • Wounds
  • Cuts
  • Bruises

Horses suffering from conditions such as arthritis and laminitis can also benefit from spa treatment as well as a prevention against stiffness and lameness in competition or race horses when used regularly.

Jacuzzi jets can also be added for use around the joints, acting as a massage and reducing swelling and puffiness.

Other Alternative Therapies

As you can see, there are many different forms of therapy that can be used to give your horse a longer, healthier, more comfortable life. Remember to always consult with your vet before performing any of therapies as there are dangers that must be avoided.

Make sure to read my other article on alternative therapies for horses which discusses the possibilities of acupuncture, sports massage, and chiropractic care.

Alison O’Callaghan, our Equine Editor, is a professional horse riding instructor and has owned many types of pets. When she is not riding horses or walking her dog, she loves to write about animals. If you’d like to contact Alison, you can email her at ocallaghan462@gmail.com. 

Book Review- Walter: The Story of a Rat

Walter: The Story of a Rat

This is a book that I have seen many times, but have never picked up. Typically I jump at the chance to read about rats who aren’t portrayed as nasty vermin, but for whatever reason, I have waited years to pick up this book and dive in. This month, at my local library, I found a copy next to one of the books I had come to check out. I fell for the dramatic and beautiful illustration on the cover, depicting a rat looking at words on a wall. This was different from the unimpressive image I was used to seeing on this book: that of a rat standing awkwardly while holding some kind of food to his nose. While the cover art of the latter copy had turned me away, the more realistic looking image of the rat had pulled me in. I reasoned that any book willing to visually portray rats this way must be worth the read.

The lovely, updated cover of Walter

How It All Began

Finding a decent work of fiction that shines a good light on rats is often quite difficult. Many people who write about rats this way are doing so because they are desperate to change the opinions of the readers. You have to use some persuasion, really, since most of the people out there in the world are told that rats are filthy, disgusting creatures that are something to be fearful of. We watch them squeak through wet sewers and terrorize humans at every turn in most of our media encounters with them, and we are constantly being reminded that rats bring disease. Mice? Though they live in mostly the same conditions in the same parts of the world, we seem less bothered by their image as cute little heroes. Why do we humans connect with mice and not rats? They look similar, behave in a similar manner, and are both considered pests. This preponderance is actually a large topic within this book. I wouldn’t say that I enjoyed the way it was handled, but we can come back to that later.

Basking in the sunshine.

Walter, a highly unusual rat, realized one day that he could read and named himself after Walter Scott, a Scottish historical novelist. He finds himself in the home of author Amanda Pomeroy and lives with her, sharing space but not companionship. They are both loners who enjoy a quiet life that has come with age. Walter knows this human is an author, but only stumbles into her collection of published works after many years of browsing her bookshelves at night. He is shocked to discover that her books are all about mice. At first this is unsetting to him, since he has lived with her all of this time and takes offense at the notion that mice, yet again, are the heroes of the day when rats could just as easily have been in that role, but over time his attitude softens and he decides to confront the author about her choices. The two begin communicating through a series of notes left in the author’s study.

A hairless rat aspiring to be like Walter.

 

The Negative Side

The target audience for this book is readers aged 9 to 11-years-old, and, for anyone in that category, the rapidly-developing, oddball mash up of the character that is Walter must be something mysterious or entertaining. As an adult reading the book, I found it to be completely frustrating. This is basically a fantasy short story, not giving time to develop the history of any one specific character with any type of depth, but that doesn’t excuse the author from creating one large befuddling mystery. Did Walter’s parents escape from NIMH? All we know is that suddenly he realized that he could read, which certainly sounds familiar enough to fans of that rodent epic. Was there some kind of magic involved? The off-handed way in which Walter’s ability to read was tossed out at the audience was very poorly managed and off-putting to say the least, but I trudged on through all of it and through the multiple and frankly unnecessary references to various authors along the way. Okay, we get it, this is probably a list of the author’s favorite authors. Moving on…

Lovely rat relaxing in a cozy hammock.

Most of our introduction to Walter beyond his reading genius falls into what I mentioned before about authors having to convince readers that a rat is worthy of being the sweet, loving hero of a book. Rats are clean, intelligent animals, even without magical reading ability and there is no way that a reader can forget that as they trudge through the first few pages, which were more of a lecture on rats than they should have been. More time should have been taken to plot out Walter’s backstory than to explain to readers how rats live. And for goodness sake, if you are going to be telling truths about rats to encourage readers to like them, why would you make Walter a cannibal, introducing him as a rat who ate his own siblings? I can not tell you how out of place that felt in among all of the other “rats are good” statements that I was bombarded with while I should have been enjoying a story. Rats fight with one another, yes, but I have never had a single rat eat their own child or sibling, and I have had well over a hundred pet rats in my lifetime. This isn’t to say that it does not happen, but is it worth pointing it out to young readers? How did this statement develop his character? These are things I could never figure out.

The Moral of the Story

I am, admittedly, being overly critical here. I do appreciate any author who puts rats out there in a way that is supportive or kind, and rather than put the book down I continued reading to discover that once you push past the first pages, this is actually a very touching story. Where I had grumbled in frustration at the beginning, I swooned at the end, remembering all of the rats I’d had as pets in the past and wondering if they could ever have seen me in the same light that Walter saw Amanda. The fantastical notion of Walter’s ability to read faded into a more realistic feeling as he communicated with his new friend and we discover things about her that we might not have known or expected before.

The original cover of “Walter: The Story of a Rat”

In the end, though it feels literacy and rat knowledge are somewhat forced upon the reader, this is a story about being alone and finding companionship where you may or may not expect it. It is a good lesson for young readers and a respectful book to rats themselves. I am glad that I didn’t let the awkward nature of the writing impede my completion of the story, or I would have missed out on something sweet indeed. I wouldn’t say it was one of my favorite rat books of all time, but anyone looking for a decent book that highlights the best part of a rat’s nature should pick this one up and enjoy it.

Story by Barbara Wersba

Illustrations by Donna Diamond

Genre & Topics: Fiction, Reading & Writing, Rats

Published in 2012 by Boyds Mills Press

64 pages, Illustrated with drawings

Mirrani Houpe, our Small Animal Editor, has had rats since she took home her first little boy once they both completed the second grade. Since that time she has owned, rescued and bred many kinds of rats, from many backgrounds. She may not be a vet, psychology major, or scientist, but her babies have her very well trained when it comes to how to care for them. She is constantly working with her family’s veterinarian to come up with new and innovative ways to love and care for the most often misunderstood rodent in the pet world. You can e-mail her at mirrani@yourpetspace.info

The Importance of Socializing Your Dog

The definition of socialization is “a continuing process whereby an individual acquires a personal identity and learns the norms, values, behavior, and social skills appropriate to his or her social position.” This applies to children learning how to be productive, kind adults, but it also applies to dogs learning how to behave appropriately around other animals and in unfamiliar environments. Basically, a dog needs to learn appropriate doggy manners at a young age so they can grow up to be a good member of their K-9 community. If they don’t learn these skills while they’re still young, they might be too frightened to interact positively with other dogs, they might become fear-aggressive as an attempt to protect themselves from the unknown, or they can trigger an aggressive response from another dog due to their rude behavior or their nervous energy. In other words, socializing your dog at as young an age as possible is crucial to their well-being.

Four properly socialized best friends.

When It Should be Started

You can start socializing your dog as soon as they have received their appropriate vaccinations. If you have a young puppy, make sure all of their shots are up to date before taking them to new places. If you got your dog from a shelter, check with your vet to make sure their shot records are up to date. These vaccinations must be done to keep your dog safe in the outside world.

Ideally, socializing should begin when your dog is a puppy. Puppyhood is defined as a dog from birth to 6 months old, adolescent is 6 to 18 months old, and adulthood is 18 months old and up. Their experiences from birth until they are about four months old have a major effect on their outlooks of life into their adult years. They begin to decide which things are scary or threatening during this time, so having as many positive encounters with humans, dogs, vacuums, stores, cars, and other animals as young as possible can help them grow to be very confident and happy. They will probably be nervous encountering these new situations at first, but as long as they are enjoying themselves at the end of the experience, it should help them in the long run. If your puppy is scared the whole way through, it is important that you take a step back and develop a slightly different plan. If your dog is not enjoying the experience, it could cause more harm than good.

While puppyhood is the best time to start socializing your dog, it isn’t the only time that it can begin. If you get your dog from an animal shelter, the odds are pretty good that it may not be a puppy. Because of their age, they will have already formed memories of things that will effect them for the rest of their lives. Growing up in a shelter isn’t easy, so your new dog might have some difficulty adjusting in their first few months with you. They’ll be remembering all of their bad experiences with other dogs, humans, and new environments, so it will be crucial to re-introduce them to these experiences gently yet effectively.

A puppy politely meeting a kitten for the first time.

Older dogs can make a change and realize that they are safe in new environments, but more often than not, if your dog is past the age of three, they will stay fairly firm in their ways. This is especially true if they didn’t receive any socialization as a puppy or if they were raised in a shelter. Some dogs have naturally good manners and are resilient at heart, so their upbringing may not affect them too much in adulthood. Other dogs, however, can be fearful or rude without proper socialization. This can cause some major dysfunction if they’re put with a group of dogs. Both fear and rude behavior can trigger aggressive responses from the dogs around them, even if those other dogs are polite and properly socialized.

Knowing Your Dog’s Limits

It is good to try to get your dog reasonably out of their comfort zone, but there also comes a time when they will stop improving, particularly if they’re past the age of three. If/when this happens, attempting to socialize your dog further could make them even more fearful and stressed. I believe that this is the time to accept your dog for who they are and to encourage them in the things they are already more comfortable with, without pushing them too far out of their comfort zone. This doesn’t mean that you should give up on socializing your dog, but you should look for different methods that involve activities that are more suited to your dog’s personality. Each dog is a unique individual and it is important to see them for who they are and to not push them too far. If your dog doesn’t achieve the things you’d like them to in a reasonable time frame, try something new and develop some new goals that your dog is more likely to achieve.

My Experiences

I got my precious little Staffordshire Terrier mix, Annie, when she was about eight months old. She was still quite young, but she clearly had some bad experiences before we met. We had two dogs at home when I got her, a Shiba Inu named Keiko and a Pit Bull/Lab mix named Halley. Annie formed a very good relationship with Halley who chose to become a mother-like figure for Annie, but Keiko wanted nothing to do with a wildly energetic puppy, and Annie could tell. Keiko began snarling and snapping at Annie whenever she came near her. Halley would always put her body in-between them to defuse these tense moments.

Halley and Keiko enjoying the snow a few years back.

On October 20, 2015, just five months after I rescued Annie, the dynamic changed forever. Our sweet Halley passed away at just ten years old due to liver failure and an infection in her lymph nodes. She was a complete angel of a dog and she passed much too soon, breaking the hearts of everyone in our family, including Annie and Keiko. Because Halley was no longer there to keep Annie and Keiko apart, their relationship got much worse. Annie realized that she’s a much bigger and stronger dog than Keiko, so she began to take a stand against Keiko’s snarling and snapping. They began to fight.

It started off happening very infrequently, but it got worse and worse as the months wore on, leading to us keeping Annie and Keiko separate 24/7. Because of this, I began to believe that Annie was aggressive towards other dogs and that I needed to keep her away from them as much as I could. This was not necessarily the right decision.

While it is true that I should have been cautious with her around other dogs, it was still the time to try to help her make positive memories with dogs that actually liked her and wanted to be around her. She was between the ages of 1-2 1/2 years old during this time. I stopped taking her to the dog park because I didn’t trust her to not start a fight. I took her to several different training classes for obedience and agility and walked her around stores so she would get some interaction with the outside world. She would often bark and lunge at other dogs during these interactions, and I learned how to pull her away and get her to re-focus on me. She improved greatly out in the world, but still continued to be aggressive towards Keiko by fence fighting through the door that separated them. If we didn’t choose to keep them separated constantly, I’m sure more fights would occur. Annie and I moved into our own apartment when she turned two.

My silly Annie, relaxing since Keiko is elsewhere.

What I didn’t realize is that she was behaving this way mostly out of fear. While I do think it’s true that her relationship with Keiko and the loss of Halley had a major affect on her behavior, I should have also known that, with her experiences in the shelter and with a sudden change in her routine, she didn’t know what was going to happen anytime we went somewhere unfamiliar. She was also probably unsure if every dog would be a threat to her like Keiko was. Her experiences with Halley took place in such a short period of time that Annie could have been led to believe that Halley was the only kind dog out there. She may have begun to believe that she had to protect herself from other dogs because she didn’t get a chance to meet and play with any friendly dogs after Halley passed away.

Because we lived on our own and she got relatively little interaction with the outside world, she became more fearful, and more attached to me. She believed that she had to protect me, and that she was only safe when I was there with her. If we were somewhere that we went frequently where she felt safe, she would do amazing and have a great time! I take her to PetSmart, Better Life Pet Foods, Andele’s Dog House, and Pet Co. on a regular basis and, when we’re there, she no longer acts aggressively towards other dogs, she doesn’t show as much fearful body language, and she doesn’t try to protect me. She knows what she likes and where she feels safe.

Annie just turned three on Halloween of this year. Because of this, I am pushing her out of her comfort zone even more to try to help her to continue to improve. To do this, I am taking her to doggie daycare about once a week (at Your Pet Space, of course). This gives her a chance to be somewhere new without me and hopefully figure out that she is safe. She has already made improvements with trusting Joy and Dave, and she has met a few laidback, senior dogs. She may never feel comfortable enough to play with the higher energy dogs, but that is completely fine. I want her to improve as much as she can, and if all she can do is relax with calm, old dogs all day, that’s perfect to me. If I keep taking her weekly for several months and she doesn’t continue to improve, it’s time to re-evaluate and come up with a new plan. Since she just turned three, this year is the time to figure out as much as I can with her, so she can be as happy, healthy, and well-adjusted as possible in her adult years.

Dave gave her treats, so Annie is repaying him with hugs and kisses.

What You Can Do For Your Dog

If you are just beginning to socialize your dog, it is best to start off slowly to introduce them to the outside world. A great place to start is obedience training classes, especially if you have a puppy. Training gives dogs confidence, it helps them form trust in you, and it helps them begin to understand the concept of “good behavior”. Obedience training will also help once you move further along in socializing your dog, and you need to know that your dog will listen to you and trust your commands. Claren Wilson at Cloud K-9 is one of the best trainers out there, so don’t hesitate to get in touch with her!

Once your dog has good obedience skills, you can begin taking them on walks in stores, at the farmers market, and along the street. This website recommends developing a regular walking group with a variety of dogs and people so your pup can get used to being in a group of dogs without throwing them into the cacophony that the dog park tends to create. Even doggie day care might be too much excitement when you’re just beginning.

A calm, one-on-one meeting between two young dogs.

While the goal is to get your dog socialized, the ultimate focus should be your dog’s safety. This trainer provides an excellent perspective on taking socializing slowly and focusing on your dog’s reactions to their new environments and their safety. She explains that you should “match the scenario to the dog’s current skill set. Has the dog ever been to a public event? If not, starting at the street fair with new asphalt substrates, a thousand people, several dozen food vendors, other (possibly stressed) dogs, music from the dance troupes, and the roar of engines from the car show is probably not a good choice for an outing. How about starting with the neighbor’s cookout, where you can introduce your dog to fewer people and then pop him back home after he’s had a good time?” In other words, baby steps are key.

Last, but certainly not least, here is a wonderful weekly checklist and report card that you can use to help you figure out what situations your dog is sensitive to, and to track their improvements as their socialization moves forward. I would focus on one item on the checklist at a time before moving on to the next item, then rotating back through so your dog doesn’t forget what they’ve learned. You may even need to print a few of these lists if you want to track your dog’s daily exposure. While this checklist is targeted toward puppies, it can certainly be used for adolescent and adult dogs as well. Just keep in mind, if your dog isn’t a puppy or is over or near the age of three, the process will be much longer and possibly less successful. As long as you work on socializing your dog with patience, kindness, and mountains love, both you and your dog will change for the better.

Jessica Smith, Associate Editor, having been raised in a household full of dogs, guinea pigs, hamsters, and all things furry, Jessica’s love of animals has only grown over the years. She is currently volunteering for Safe Haven Animal Sanctuary in her free time when she isn’t out and about with her ridiculous pit bull mix, Annabel Lee, or taking care of her two goldfish, Carrot Cake and Winchester. She is also putting her literature degree to use by working as an editor for a local online magazine, Independent Noise. While she has no plans for the future, she knows that it will be filled with fur and fiction galore. You can e-mail Jessica at associateeditorjessica@yourpetspace.info

Partnering With Your Pet Care Provider

dog with leash

Have you ever wondered if your pet care provider has a wish list?  Ok, probably not.  That’s ok, we promise not to get our feelings hurt. 🙂  Ideally, we are here to serve you.  If we’re doing things right, you shouldn’t worry about anything but having a great time yourselves or getting through your family emergency or business trip while your pets are having an out of this world time with us.

But, since we’re on the subject…  🙂  We actually, we have two lists.

wishlist

MUST HAVE LIST

We must have you inform us if:

Your dog has been coughing or sneezing. (This can be symptomatic of Bordetella bronchiseptica m.) Depending on how long this has been happening, we may need to offer home care to your dog for a few days even if coughing has stopped so that it doesn’t spread to other guests in our care.  Please note that if your dog commonly exhibits a stress cough (as opposed to a cough being treated with medication for another condition) we will also instigate home care, since it’s the best way to reduce the stress for your dog.  It is commonly assumed that the Bordetella vaccine, nasal mist or oral medication makes dogs completely safe from contracting this condition.  However, much like the human flu vaccines, it actually does every little.  Your dog’s own immune system is usually quite adequate to fight the virus without it.  But any dog with these symptoms should be closely monitored and taken to the vet if they worsen.  Especially senior dogs and puppies may require an anti-biotic to recover.

Your dog has had mites, mange, worms, ticks or fleas.  Dogs can contract many of these types of parasites, and many can be easily spread to other guests or our staff.  If your dog has had any of these conditions in the last 30 days, we will require a note from your vet that they are safe to return to us for daycare or boarding.

Note:  Dogs can pick up viruses and bacteria right in their own back yard without ever having attended a dog park or facility.

dog symptoms

Your dog has other unusual symptoms.  These might indicate something else contagious happening: vomiting, diarrhea or blood in the stool, scratching, hot spots, trouble breathing.

Your dog takes any medications and why they need them, as well as proper dosage instructions, times of day they need to be dispensed, and drug interactions/side effects to watch for.

Your dog has allergies, and to what.

There are any changes in feeding instructions—you’d be surprised how often it happens that people change what or how they’re feeding and don’t tell us.  Please ask us to read to you what we have on file, so we can double check if it is correct.

There are any changes in contact info, vet info or to the list of people allowed to pick up your dog.

tell us your story

NICE TO HAVE LIST–WE WISH CLIENTS WOULD

We wish clients would tell us more about their dog’s home life—everything from what kinds of toys they like to play with to how much time they spend outside, in their crate, playing with dog friends, etc.

We wish clients would tell us if their dog has had a recent altercation with another dog, has been attacked by a dog, or has had any negative incident at another facility.

We wish clients would tell us if their dog has a high prey drive (they like to chase small animals).

We wish clients would tell us if their dog routinely jumps fences or digs to escape—we have a special no jump area and can easily supervise diggers, when known.

We wish clients would tell us if their dog gets along better with dogs than people—will their dog follow us when asked to go outside?  Do they need some special treat?

We wish clients would tell us not only what commands their dog knows (sit, stay, down, off etc.) but what hand gestures they use with commands (these can be very different, client to client).

questionsWe wish clients would ask us things such as:

Why are facility staff certifications important?

How can I find the best pet food?

Can you send me pictures during my dog’s stay?

Where can I find the best trainer?

How can I choose the best home care for my pet?

Where can I find the best groomer?

Do you offer transport?

What are some holistic health options for my pet?

Should I get a puppy?

What’s the safest way to re-home my pet?

How do I choose the right breed of dog or cat for me?

What does it mean when my dog:

o   Barks too much

o   Snaps at other dogs on leash

o   Sits on my foot or stands in front of me and puts his paw across my leg

o   Wags his tail

If you ever wanted to ask something but thought we were too busy, it wasn’t important or it seemed silly, please know–we wish you would!  Long before we were pet care providers we were pet parents, just like you.  We love answering questions, pointing clients in the right direction on these subjects—and we love getting pics of your dogs when they’re at home, too.

In short, we value our relationship with both you and your pets.  It’s a partnership! Thanks for giving us your trust, time after time.

Joy Jones

Joy Jones, Publisher, is also the Vice President of Your Pet Space, a cage free dog boarding facility serving the greater Las Cruces, NM area. Her urban fiction book Indigo was recently published. When not working at Your Pet Space, she writes a metaphysical column, as well as humor. You can e-mail her at joy@yourpetspace.info or follow Your Pet Space on Facebook.

Feeding Dogs Human Food: How to Change Your Ways

You’re eating dinner with your family and you just so happen to have a leftover slice of chicken on your plate that you aren’t going to eat. Your four-legged canine friend is staring up at you with those forlorn puppy-dog eyes that you can never resist. You subtly slide him your leftovers which he joyously gobbles up in a nano-second, then immediately looks up at you for more. While this chicken tidbit may not seem like a harmful treat, there are some real dangers and inconveniences that can be caused by feeding your dogs human food. This being said, there are also some specific occasions where certain human foods might make a healthy treat for your furry pal.

Ready for a feast (and upset tummies)

Allergic Reactions

First of all, there are the dangers of food allergies if your dog tries a sample of human food. These include your dog’s individual allergies, and the things that EVERY dog must avoid at all costs. There are a vast multitude of human foods that can be deadly for your dog if they manage to get their teeth on them. This list includes:

  • Garlic
  • Onions
  • Avocado
  • Caffeine
  • Grapes and raisins
  • Macadamia nuts
  • Chocolate
  • Salt
  • Sugary foods and drinks
  • Candy
  • Raw meat

These are just some of the foods that dogs cannot have under ANY circumstances whatsoever. While they all have different dangers and different levels of toxicity, there is absolutely no reason to feed your dog even the smallest amount of these foods. They will cause some serious damage down the line.

Someone had too much chocolate.

There is also the issue of your dog having allergies to foods other than the dangerous ones listed. For example, my dog is extremely allergic to all grain and potato. These can both be found in processed dog food, but her reactions are much worse if she gets them in their purer forms, such as in bread or as French fries. Your dog could be having an allergic reaction to something you’re feeding them, and you may not notice until they’re covered in a rash and hives. Only feeding them dog food greatly reduces this risk, and it makes it easier to discover what they’re really allergic to since the ingredients are listed right on the bag.

Over Feeding

One of the more obvious problems with feeding dogs human food is over feeding. Since dogs are so much smaller than humans, increasing their intake even by a few table scraps can cause obesity to set in quickly. Premade dog food provides all of the nutrition that your dog needs, so adding human food as a “treat” on top of their regular portion of food tends to fatten them up and take them out of their ideal weight range which can then lead to even more health issues.

Below, there are two different dog nutrition calculators that can help you balance out your dog’s diet. The first one will show you the appropriate serving size of dog food for your dog based on the calorie content listed on their food bag. The second calculator helps you find the ideal weight for your dog and a suggested feeding amount based on the number of calories they are currently ingesting.

This dog is getting way more than his recommended amount.

Begging

Your dog’s health isn’t the only reason why you should avoid giving them human food. There is also the major concern of bad manners and begging. While some people think it’s cute to see their fluffy little dog stare up at them lovingly for a scrap of bacon, it can actually be a sign of a dog who needs more training. If you leave food on a low table, will your dog grab it like it was his all along? Do you have to guard your plate while you’re eating so he doesn’t steal any morsels you that aren’t willing to give away? These are all signs that your pal could use some more training to be less tempted by human treats.

If your dog sees or believes that his food is the same as yours, why wouldn’t he take it when he has a chance? These bad behaviors can be trained away relatively easily, but the first step will always be to stop feeding your dog scraps from the table. Here is a helpful site about training away begging and bad table manners that could help you going in the right direction. If you live locally, check out the amazing Claren Wilson at Cloud K-9!

Cute, but unhealthy for them both.

Healthy Dog Food Alternatives

Now that we have discussed the dangers of human foods, it is also important to know that there are always exceptions to the rule. While the dangerous parts of human food should always be avoided, dogs can occasionally enjoy food that doesn’t come in kibble form.

Very specifically prepared human food can be enjoyed by dogs in moderation. For example, if your dog is having stomach problems, your vet might recommend feeding them a diet of white rice and boiled chicken for a few days to help clear out their system. For this, you’d have to make sure the chicken has no seasonings added to it and is boiled in water, not chicken broth. Broth usually contains garlic and onion which is toxic to dogs. If your dog is having diarrhea, pureed pumpkin added to their food will help firm up their poo thanks to the high fiber content.

Fruits and veggies can also provide your dog with a healthy, low calorie treat that can even be frozen to give your dog some tasty relief on a hot summer day. Some healthy options are:

  • Apples (minus the seeds and core)
  • Strawberries
  • Oranges
  • Blueberries
  • Mango (remove the large pit)
  • Carrots
  • Cucumbers
  • Celery (remove the leaves)

Some other options may cause diarrhea so they are recommended for use in smaller servings. These include:

  • Watermelon (avoid seeds)
  • Bananas
  • Pineapple
  • Broccoli
  • Peaches (no pit)

    Ready for a healthy snack.

It is important to always clean the fruits and veggies before feeding them to your dog, and make sure any large pits or sharp bits are removed. My dog acts like watermelon is the most amazing substance to be created, especially if its frozen (even though it gives her particularly nasty poo). I don’t allow her to have any human food scraps, so when she gets a frozen watermelon popsicle, she acts like it’s her birthday, Thanksgiving, and Christmas all wrapped into one. I would definitely recommend treating your dog with fruits and veggies, especially if you are trying to slim them down. They are usually lower calorie than regular dog treats, and cheaper too! Just watch very carefully for any signs of allergies or upset stomach with each new food your dog tries.

Now even though fruits and veggies can make a great addition to your dog’s diet as a snack or treat between meals, it is very important to realize that dogs cannot survive on veggies alone. Some owners might be tempted to put their dog on a vegetarian diet, but this could be detrimental to their health. Melvin Pena explains that, “A purely vegetarian diet exposes dogs to musculoskeletal issues, vision disorders — including blindness — chronic urinary tract infections, and cardiovascular disease. For instance, a balanced diet for dogs strengthens and sustains the heart muscle; without the nutrients a dog needs, the heart muscle becomes enlarged and weakened, contributing to cumulative and irreversible problems like congestive heart failure.”

Dogs should not be vegetarian simply because of the way their bodies are designed to process food. Carnivores have very short, simple digestive systems because meat can be broken down and absorbed quickly. Herbivores, however, have very long digestive systems due to the complexity of breaking down vegetables and grains. For example, think of the amazing four-compartment stomach that cows have! They need their intricately designed stomach and their 170 foot long small intestines just to digest the grass and grain that they’re eating. All of this takes up to three days! Dogs, on the other hand, have a very small single chamber stomach with extremely acidic digestive enzymes to break down meat, which occurs in only 4-6 hours. Clearly, dogs do not have the proper digestive system for a vegetarian diet: your dog is not a cow. Many dog food brands offer grain-free options since it just goes through the dog without being properly digested.

The intricate digestive system of a cow. Your dog’s is MUCH more simple.

Another good alternative to human food is high quality healthy dog food. If your dog refuses to eat anything but human food, the experts at Better Life Natural Pet Foods can help you find a healthy food that your dog will love. There are countless options available that are much healthier for your dog than human food, and odds are these folks will be able to help. A good option for you might be a fresh, refrigerated dog food called Freshpet. It is made with all-natural ingredients and might make your dog think they’re eating a gourmet steak dinner, even though it’s actually just a healthy dog food. It is possible to change the way your dog eats and, odds are, it’ll be easier than it seems.

If you are concerned with your dog’s eating habits, you’re thinking of changing their diet, your dog is on a vegetarian diet, or you are considering a vegetarian diet, please visit your vet and ask them for more advice. Getting your dog on the proper diet is quite difficult, so it’s good to know that you can have your vet to lean on. Ohio State University’s Veterinary Medical Center has provided a very convenient diet history form that you can print out and complete before visiting your vet, so they will have all of the information they need to help you and your furry friend.

Lastly, there are ways to reward your dog that don’t involve any food whatsoever. We typically think of treats as the only way we can let our dogs know they’re being good, but it can actually be communicated by participating in some of their favorite activities, as well. Instead of giving your dog a hamburger or ice cream for being especially well-behaved, take them on a hike, to a park, go jogging with them, or just play a simple game of fetch in the back yard. Get them good and tired and then maybe treat them to a lovely watermelon popsicle for dessert. It is entirely possible to bond with your dog and spoil them without feeding them unhealthy human food. While it might be a hard transition at first, it’ll be worth it when your lifelong companion is as healthy and happy as they can possibly be.

Jessica Smith

Jessica Smith, Associate Editor, having been raised in a household full of dogs, guinea pigs, hamsters, and all things furry, Jessica’s love of animals has only grown over the years. She is currently volunteering for Safe Haven Animal Sanctuary in her free time when she isn’t out and about with her ridiculous pit bull mix, Annabel Lee, or taking care of her remarkably ancient guinea pig, Moose. She is also putting her literature degree to use by working as an editor for a local online magazine, Independent Noise. While she has no plans for the future, she knows that it will be filled with fur and fiction galore. You can e-mail Jessica at associateeditorjessica@yourpetspace.info

National Puppy Day- March 23

In honor of National Puppy Day approaching, here’s an awesome infographic about puppy adoption created by the fantastic Mary Nielson from My Sweet Puppy blog! Check out her original post here!

Jessica Smith

Jessica Smith, Associate Editor, having been raised in a household full of dogs, guinea pigs, hamsters, and all things furry, Jessica’s love of animals has only grown over the years. She is currently volunteering for Safe Haven Animal Sanctuary in her free time when she isn’t out and about with her ridiculous pit bull mix, Annabel Lee, or taking care of her remarkably ancient guinea pig, Moose. She is also putting her literature degree to use by working as an editor for a local online magazine, Independent Noise. While she has no plans for the future, she knows that it will be filled with fur and fiction galore. You can e-mail Jessica at associateeditorjessica@yourpetspace.info

Alternative Therapies for Horses

Alternative therapies for horses are becoming increasingly more popular amongst owners, with many different choices now available. It should be remembered, though, that they should be used in conjunction, and not as a replacement, with traditional veterinary treatment and diagnosis.

Here is a look at three popular alternative therapies – acupuncture, chiropractic and equine sports massage.

Even healthy horses can benefit from alternative therapies.

Acupuncture

What is acupuncture?

Acupuncture was developed by the ancient Chinese over 3,000-years-ago and recognized as being an extremely useful treatment for a variety of conditions in horses. It involves the stimulation of certain points on the horse’s body (acupoints), where there are large amounts of nerve endings, blood vessels, and lymph nodes, helping to ease pain and treat or prevent disease.

When to use acupuncture

Most types of medical conditions combined with veterinary treatment can benefit from acupuncture. These include:

  • Muscle soreness and stiffness
  • Back pain
  • Lameness
  • Arthritis
  • Navicular syndrome
  • Tendon/ligament injuries
  • Muscle, bone and joint injuries
  • Digestive problems
  • Respiratory conditions
  • Neurological conditions
  • Reproduction problems
  • Weak immunity

It is generally not used for:

  • Malignant tumours
  • Fractures
  • Infectious diseases
  • Organ failure

Before treatment commences, the acupuncturist will ask about your horse’s symptoms and its usual daily routine. They will then check the tongue and carry out an examination of the whole body to identify trigger points.

An example of acupuncture needles.

The techniques of acupuncture include:

  • Dry-needles: A thin, sterile needle is inserted into the acupoint. The needles are of various lengths and widths, and each one stimulates tiny nerve endings, sending messages to the brain to either ease the pain or send other hormones and chemicals to the body. It is often used with other acupuncture techniques.
  • Electro-acupuncture: A long, dry needle is inserted and attached to a wire connected to an electro-acupuncture machine. Gentle electrical pulsations are delivered through the needle generating nerve stimulation and muscle contraction. This produces a more effective stimulation than a dry-needle alone, and is often used for sore backs.
  • Hemo-acupuncture: Blood is drawn from the acupuncture point with a hypodermic needle. It releases heat from the body and is used for neurological conditions and to help boost the immune system.
  • Aquapuncture: Liquid, usually Vitamin B12, sterile water, or saline solution, is injected into the acupuncture point, producing constant stimulation from the pressure. This is often used for soreness, back pain, and lack of energy, or for horses that will not stay still for usual needling.
  • Moxibustion: The warming of an acupoint using the crushed, dried leaves of the herb Artemisia vulgaris (commonly known as mugwort), which is rolled into a cigar-like cylinder. It is burned and held over the skin or placed onto an acupuncture needle already inserted into the acupoint, stimulating the area. This is often used for treating arthritis.
  • Tuina medical manipulation: The acupuncturist uses their hands and fingers, instead of needles, to apply constant pressure for 1 to 5 minutes on each acupoint. It is often used for joint conditions such as arthritis and for back problems and it can also assist the internal organs.
  • Pneumo-acupuncture: Sterilised air is injected into the acupoint creating an air bubble within the tissues, stimulating the area. This is a useful treatment for muscle wastage.
  • Laser stimulation: A painless laser beam is used instead of a needle to stimulate the acupoints difficult to treat areas such as the head and legs. It is held over the area for up to two minutes and has been proven to be as effective as needles.

Who should carry out acupuncture?

Acupuncture, by law, can only be carried out on a horse by a qualified veterinary surgeon trained in this practice. When performed correctly, it is extremely safe and often used alongside chiropractic treatment.

Chiropractic Treatment

What is chiropractic treatment?

Chiropractic treatment is concerned with problems related to the horse’s back and other areas of the body that may have caused misalignments to the spine.

The practice concentrates on the connection between structure (the vertebral column) and function (the nervous system). Horses were not made to carry a rider, so when they do, they use their muscles in an unnatural way. Correct schooling and a good, balanced rider can help strengthen the horse, but this isn’t always the case and it isn’t always enough, so problems often occur.

Beautiful horse getting adjusted by Dr. Heidi Bockhold.

The chiropractor deals with vertebral subluxation complexes (VSCs) and will look for the underlying cause of the problem. By using quick forces to a joint or bone with their hands, the structures are brought back into alignment by the chiropractor, eliminating the source of the pain.

When to use chiropractic treatment

Often when a vet is unable to find the cause of a horse’s lameness, they will recommend the services of a chiropractor. Conditions related to the back can often be the reason for abnormalities in the gait.

Ridden horses, especially those in competition, are recommended to have routine checks so that any problems are discovered before they become a major issue.

Signs that your horse needs a chiropractor are as follows:

  • When a horse has had a fall
  • Changes in behaviour
  • Showing resistance such as bucking, rearing and tail swishing
  • Uneven gaits
  • Stiffness
  • Pinning ears back and biting when being saddled or groomed
  • Holding tail to one side
  • Difficulty performing lateral work
  • Head tossing
  • Bolting
  • Asymmetrical in hips or shoulders
  • Chronic weight loss
  • Lameness
  • Difficulty in picking up correct canter leads

Chiropractic treatment should not be carried out on a horse that may have a fracture as it could result in a greater injury.

Horse and rider can both benefit from chiropractic treatment.

Who should carry out chiropractic treatment?

Some vets are trained as equine chiropractors, offering their services in this area. Many chiropractors treat both humans and horses so can help the rider as well, as their posture may affect the way they ride their horse. Only use a chiropractor that is qualified and experienced, with an excellent reputation.

Before carrying out treatment, the chiropractor requires the history of the horse and gives the horse a full examination. They will first observe the standing horse, looking for any irregularities in its posture, asymmetry, discomfort indicators and muscle wastage.

Next, the spine will be scrutinized, looking for any heat or swelling, asymmetry, and structural abnormalities. Afterwards, the gait is analyzed, which is the most important part of the examination. The chiropractor assesses spine mobility and pelvic movement so they can distinguish between back pain and problems in the limbs. Lastly, a test is carried out for a full range of movement on each joint. The chiropractor may also want to see the horse ridden and may check the fit of the saddle and bridle.

Some chiropractors complement their treatment with other therapies such as acupuncture, massage, stretches, and infra-red lights.

Equine Sports Massage

What is equine sports massage?

Equine sports massage consists of manipulating the horse’s skin and muscles with the hands and fingers of a masseur.

In need of a good massage.

The benefits are:

  • Relieves tension
  • Relaxes the muscles
  • Develops muscle tone
  • Increases and improves blood circulation
  • Improves coat
  • Allows more freedom of movement
  • Eases pain
  • Improves immunity
  • Prevents injuries

During a session, each muscle is massaged separately using different techniques, and finished with stretches.

The methods employed are:

  • Effleurage: This is always used first and last on the horse, using one or both hands, in a firm stroking motion, following the direction of the coat. Effleurage improves the venous and lymphatic flow and helps the horse relax.
  • Petrissage: Compression using hands and fingers on the muscle. The two main techniques are kneading and finger compressions. With kneading, the hand is in a relaxed fist shape, making circular motions, on a large muscle mass range. Finger compressions target a specific area using the pads of the fingers in a circular motion. Petrissage is used to improve circulation and soften the muscle tissues.
  • Tapotement: A double-handed technique employed in a quick and rapid way, using gentle contact on large muscle masses. The two techniques are hacking and clapping. Hacking involves the sides of the fingertips and hands and clapping requires the hands to be cupped. Tapotement improves circulation and muscle tone. It is a useful method for warming up the horse’s muscles before work, especially at competitions.

Passive stretches are carried out on the horse once the muscles are softened, depending on the patient’s needs. These are made slowly, helping to maintain the suppleness and flexibility of the horse’s muscles and range of movement. The masseur may show you how to do them yourself so that they can be done regularly after exercise when the horse’s muscles are warm.

Horse experiencing a healing massage with a vet.

Signs that your horse needs equine sports massage therapy include:

  • Sore back
  • Uneven gait
  • Cold back
  • Sensitive to grooming and saddling
  • Knocking or refusing jumps
  • Bucking after jumps
  • Not staying straight over jumps
  • Hollowing back
  • Bucking and rearing
  • Head shaking or tilting
  • Tripping and stumbling

Regular massages and stretching, alongside correct riding and schooling, cansignificantly help and improve your horse’s health.

Massage should not be carried out if the horse is experiencing any of the following:

  • Following an accident
  • Colic
  • Dehydration
  • Skin problem
  • Disease
  • Cancerous areas
  • Pregnant mare
  • Open wounds
  • Fractures

Who should carry out equine sports massage?

Your vet should either refer you to or recommend a qualified equine sports masseur once they have decided that this type of therapy is beneficial for your horse.

Unlike other treatments, massage looks at the whole horse. The masseur will carry out an assessment and will need to know your horse’s history. They will look at the confirmation and action, breed, type of work, teeth, and the horse’s feet and shoeing, along with a check of the saddle.

This horse is healthy and athletic thanks to alternative therapies.

The masseur will watch the horse, lead in hand, walk and trot on a straight line and may also require seeing it lunged and ridden before treatment commences.

After the treatment, a good masseur will help you work out a training program for your horse which may consist of schooling, lunging, long reining and pole work alongside the massage therapy.

Picking the Right Procedure for You

You should always consult with your vet before making a treatment decision for your horse. Make sure to tell them all of your horse’s possible symptoms and they will help you figure out the best plan. If one of the treatment options discussed in this article stands out to you, take your horse to the vet and see what they suggest and if they can refer you to any licensed professionals in your area.

Alison O’Callaghan is a professional horse riding instructor and has owned many types of pets. When she is not riding horses or walking her dog, she loves to write about animals. If you’d like to contact Alison, you can email her at ocallaghan462@gmail.com.

What to Look For In A Dog Daycare/Boarding Facility

Alpha Quadrant YPS Dog Daycare/Boarding Facility

Vessa, relaxing in the Alpha Quadrant at Your Pet Space

Dave and I have had dogs all our lives–and long before we went into the profession of caring for dogs, we needed to board ours, once in awhile.  We tried a couple of places…and had some variation in experiences.  As you might imagine, we can tell you about even more that others have had, now that we are in the business, ourselves.  It wasn’t actually until we were going through training to have our own facility that we understood what exactly had happened when our dogs came home tired, stressed and somehow just…different.  So, if you’ve ever experienced any of the issues mentioned below, it might be time to consider a change for your dog.  The first thing you’ll want to do is set up a time to tour a prospective new facility.  Note that although some areas may be off limits on a tour due to reasonable liability issues if you were injured, you should be allowed to see most areas where your dog will be staying, when you ask.

Things To Ask When Touring a Dog Daycare/Boarding Facility

1.) Do you perform an assessment of all dogs entering your facility?  If so, which dogs are accepted or not, and why?

If the facility you’re considering accepts all dogs whether they are known to be aggressive or not, or whether they are fixed or not, you need to know this in advance.

Dog Daycare/Boarding Facility

Mandy, Sollie, Julie and Joey, separated from the larger dogs at Your Pet Space

2.) Do you separate large from small dogs?  How do you determine my dog’s playgroup?  How large are your playgroups?

Size and age matter.  How your dog plays does, too.  Dogs have four playstyles–and sometimes will exhibit more than one.  So a knowledgeable facility will place your dog in a group appropriate for the way he plays–whether your dog is a puppy or a couch potato.  And there shouldn’t be more than 10 dogs or so in one playgroup.

3.)  How will my dog be introduced to the others on his first day?

No matter the dog’s age, playstyle or size, you do not want your dog overwhelmed by being thrust into a strange gaggle of dogs with no warning.  Your dog should be introduced to one dog at a time, lowest energy dog first.  After all, would you want to be shoved into the faces of a large number of unknown people in a crowded rooom?

Dave and pack, Dog Daycare/Boarding Facility

Dave, supervising dogs in the Your Pet Space Milky Way area

4.)  How many people do you have supervising your playgroups?

It is simply impossible for one person to properly supervise a group of more than 15 dogs–and ideally the ratio should be 1 for every 10 dogs.  In groups of large, active dogs the proper ratio might be more like 1 to every 5.  So a lot depends on the size and activity level of the dogs. These staff members should also be inside with the dogs, not observing them with a camera or through a window.

Dog Daycare/Boarding Facility

6,000 square foot indoor play area at Your Pet Space

Dog Daycare/Boarding Facility

3,000 sq ft patio and front yard at Your Pet Space

5.) When and for how long does my dog get to be outside?  And where do they play when it’s too hot, cold or raining, windy, etc.

Every facility handles this differently.  Some have large interior play spaces.  Others have more outdoor space than inside.  If you dog is going to play indoors when the weather is inclement, how often will he go outside for potty time? Will he have an enclosed outdoor place to go or will someone be walking him?  If the only place to play is outdoors for most of the day, and it’s hot or cold, how will he be made comfortable?  Is there shade and are enough yard misters present to keep him cool?  Is there warm shelter outside in the winter and how long are dogs left outside?   Really think about worst case scenario, here.  Dogs should not be outside for more than a few minutes in above 100 degree weather–some breeds can only tolerate much, much less.  Some breeds don’t tolerate anything below 40 well without protection, while others are good for longer at colder temperatures.

Neutral Zone, Dog Daycare/Boarding Facility

Daysha, taking a break in the Your Pet Space Neutral Zone

6.)  Will my dog get a break from playing?  If so, when and where?

Think about what your dog does at home every day.  Sure, he plays–sometimes, a lot!  But it’s likely he rests a lot, too.  And in a large facility, if your dog doesn’t have a place to rest for awhile, he’s likely to go home injured and stressed.  So ask about how this is accomplished–will your dog be crated during the rest period?  If not, where’s the nap area and–if it’s communal–how is it supervised?

7.)  How is my dog fed while he’s with you?

Some facilities do this by crating each dog with his own food.  In cage free facilities, dogs should be fed one at a time.  Only dogs from the same household that are used to eating together without showing aggression should be fed together.

8.)  When my dog boards with you, is there someone on site?  If so, where?

Most facilities do not maintain on site staff overnight.  The staff leaves the dogs in their own runs for the night and returns in the mornings for cleanup of overnight messes, and to let out and feed the dogs.  Some facilities have staff on the premises, but in a separate building or on another floor from the dog guests.  A few have staff that remain with the dogs, all night long.  No matter which you choose for your pet, be aware that groups of uncrated dogs should never be left in a facility overnight without supervision.

Dave teaching, Dog Daycare/Boarding Facility

Dave re-directs Finley and London from neck biting play to playing with a toy.

9.)  If my dog’s behavior needs to be corrected, how is this accomplished?

All dogs play inappropriately from time to time.  The staff in a good facility will be trained to correct problem behavior in a positive manner–such as re-directing your dog to play a different way or with a different playmate.  Even time outs are ok, if they are brief with the purpose of cooling down an excited dog.  Brief training on the “leave it” command is great.  Hitting or the use of devices to deliver shocks are NOT okay.

Joy's CPR cert, Dog Daycare/Boarding Facility

10.)  What certifications does the facility owner and staff have in animal care and safety?

Many people don’t know that several years went by during which the only animal care certifications available for our industry were simply pieces of paper you bought on the internet.  Nowadays, thanks to organizations such as the IBPSA and PACCC, and companies such as PetTech and The Dog Gurus, real training and actual certifcations are available, by means of real courses and testing centers.

11.)  Don’t be afraid to ask the tough questions, such as: What if my dog is injured or becomes ill?  How to you handle dogs that climb or escape?  How many bites or fights do you see a year?  How do you prevent fights?  How do you handle a dog fight?  What is your emergency plan for this building?

Every facility should know their policies on these matters and be able to explain them.  Moreover, they should be able to show you the answer to anything you ask.

Bottom Line–What to Watch For At Your Current Dog Facility

Stress Signs In Dogs On Arrival

Your dog is reluctant to enter, when he wasn’t previously

New stress behaviors such as a tucked tail or submissive urinating

Stress Signs In Dogs When Leaving Or At Home

Your dog has rolling eyes, heavy panting or is hoarse from too much barking

Collar sensitivity–when he previously accepted his collar being handled

New concerning behaviors such as leash aggression or perimeter barking

Your dog can’t ask for himself.  Now you know what to ask for him.

 

Joy Jones, YPS Dog Daycare/Boarding Facility

Joy Jones, Publisher, is also the Vice President of Your Pet Space, a cage free dog boarding facility serving the greater Las Cruces, NM area. Her urban fiction book Indigo was recently published. When not working at Your Pet Space, she writes a metaphysical column, as well as humor. You can e-mail her at joy@yourpetspace.info or follow Your Pet Space on Facebook.

Exploring Holistic Modalities for Your Pet

It is often believed that the only thing you can do to help your ailing pet is to take it to the vet and deal with the stress, fear, and large bills that come along with it. However, this does not always have to be the case. While you should always take your pet to the vet at any sign of trouble, it is also good to know that there are treatment plans available for your pet to help ease their pain and discomfort in a much more natural, soothing manner. These options include chiropractic treatment for pets, reflexology, and massage. All three of these options aim to increase the comfort and well-being of your pet, but they each have very different methods of doing so. Some of these options can be performed at home, but it is important to note that there are experienced professionals right here in Las Cruces that can assist you in improving your dog’s life. Information about those professionals and an upcoming health fair will be listed at the end of this article.

A very happy dog after receiving his treatment.

Chiropractic Treatment for Pets

Of the three techniques we will be discussing in this post, chiropractic treatment for pets is the one that you absolutely need a professional to do for you. An inexperienced person practicing chiropractic treatment can cause serious harm to your pet due to the precise nature of adjusting the spine. Do not try this one at home. That being said, chiropractic care is one of the most powerful types of natural treatments for both pets and humans. This is because chiropractors focus on realigning and adjusting the neck and spine, which corrects a multitude of problems and proves to be an excellent form of long-term therapy to keep the body as healthy and comfortable as possible.

Chiropractic treatment for pets can help alleviate problems such as hip dysplasia, weak legs, stiffness, hunched back, pain in the chest, back, or neck, and osteoarthritis. If your pet appears to be in pain, take them to the vet for a diagnosis before anything else. When you and your pet meet with a chiropractor, they will first evaluate your pet to see exactly what kind of help they need. They do this by looking at the pet’s history, vet records, and x-rays. With all of this information in mind, they will know that to look for when beginning the treatment, and will proceed to learn even more about your pet’s problem once they begin a hands-on adjustment.

A pug is happily getting adjusted.

There are many ways adjusting your pet, and each chiropractor will have their on technique. Dr. Randy Kidd explains, “The way I was taught, a chiropractic adjustment consists of the following. First, identify the specific site of the subluxation and identify the direction the joint is ‘stuck’ or ‘loose.’ The contact point (the bony part of the anatomy where the adjustment will be performed) is located, and the adjuster creates a firm contact with the underlying bone, and the patient’s body is stabilized. Then, the actual adjustment is performed by moving the hand…in the direction that is specific for the way that the joint needs to be returned to normal function.” These adjustments are mostly done with just the chiropractor’s fingertips or by using a small device called an “activator” which gently presses the bones back into place. Adjustments for dogs are quite different from adjustments for humans since dogs are much more delicate creatures that only require a gentle touch.

One trip to the chiropractor will not immediately fix the pet’s problem, but it should quickly alleviate the pain or discomfort that they may be feeling. Your chiropractor will work out a schedule with you and discuss how often your pet should be adjusted. This can be as often as twice a week, or as few as once every couple of months.

Reflexology Aides Your Pet

Reflexology is a very different form of treatment than chiropractic care. While chiropractic care treats the immediate cause of your pets discomfort, reflexology aides your pet by relaxing them, increasing their blood circulation, and by promoting balance in your pet’s system which can increase healing time.

A paw fit and ready for some reflexology.

Reflexology is performed by pressing firmly on the pads of your pet’s feet and ankles, using gentle pressure and specific circular movements to promote blood circulation and to help clear blockages in your pet’s system caused by stress or toxins. In his article, Andrew Jonasson notes that, “Toxins get into your dog by way of his food. Most commercial pet foods contain preservatives, sugar, and other additives like coloring. These foods can lead to chronic health issues like diabetes, allergies, and kidney failure…reflexology is important to cleanse your dog’s body of wastes and detoxify his organs.”

It is also believed that stress in your pet’s daily life can affect their inner workings, causing inflammation and tensed muscles throughout the body. Pets can sense when their owners are stressed and will imitate the behavior they see. This can cause long-term damage to their internal system. Reflexology aides your pet by allowing them a few moments to relax, soothe their tensed muscles, and possibly even reduce some inflammation caused by stress.

Reflexology being performed on a dog’s ankle.

While this is something you can attempt at home, it really takes a professional eye to determine where the reflexology points are on your pet, and how they correspond to their organs and to the different parts of your pet’s body. Done incorrectly, it will result in a simple foot massage that your pet may still find relaxing. Done correctly, however, a professional can help flush your pet of toxins, improve their circulation, and disperse pain in tensed muscles throughout the body.

Massage

Massage is similar to reflexology in that it is a form of treatment that can help relax a nervous pet, helps relieve muscle tension, and improve blood circulation. It also aides in digestion, provides greater joint flexibility, stimulates liver and kidney function, and strengthens the immune system. Massage is an excellent form of treatment for any pet, of any age, whether they have health issues or not. Regular massage sessions can help keep your pet in tip-top shape for as long as possible.

A relaxed dog in need of an energizing massage.

Kristina Lotz explains that, “there are a few cases where massage can be particularly helpful. Reducing stiffness and fatigue after exercise by increasing circulation and flushing waste products from the muscle tissue. Massage can be great for both before and after exercise. Invigorating massage (quick strokes) can be great for dogs that are about to compete in agility competitions or for older dogs that are stiff and about to go out for a walk in the neighborhood.” You can also use slow, relaxing strokes for older pets, pets suffering from anxiety, or energetic young pets. Massage is an excellent form of treatment for any pet, but each pet will need a different form of massage due to the varying issues they may have.

Because there are so many different ways to massage your pet and because different techniques are used for different symptoms, it is crucial to go slow and to not attempt to massage your pet like you would a human. This method is often too rough for pets and can cause more harm than good. To avoid any potential damage and to learn good techniques, you may chose to take your pet to a professional animal massage therapist to do the hard work for you.

The bond between a pet and an owner can vastly improve through these forms of treatment.

Your Pet Space Health Days

Because all of these treatment options are so important and can provide your pet with some real health benefits, Your Pet Space will be having a health fair from February 23-25, 2017 from 12:00 to 7:00 p.m by appointment. There will be doctors and technicians performing reflexology, massage, chiropractic treatment, and reiki, as well as classes discussing essential oils, flower essences, and more. These events will provide you with even more information about the importance of chiropractic care for pets, reflexology, and massage, so it is really something that you can’t miss. If you are interested in any of these classes and treatments or for more information, please call Your Pet Space at 575-652-4404 to schedule an appointment.

Jessica Smith

Jessica Smith, Associate Editor, having been raised in a household full of dogs, guinea pigs, hamsters, and all things furry, Jessica’s love of animals has only grown over the years. She is currently volunteering for Safe Haven Animal Sanctuary in her free time when she isn’t out and about with her ridiculous pit bull mix, Annabel Lee, or taking care of her remarkably ancient guinea pig, Moose. She is also putting her literature degree to use by working as an editor for a local online magazine, Independent Noise. While she has no plans for the future, she knows that it will be filled with fur and fiction galore. You can e-mail Jessica at associateeditorjessica@yourpetspace.info