Many people go about their days and some notice the number of wild cats living in their neighborhoods, on college campuses, in gardens, or even in the alleys of cities. Out of sympathy, some people bring these stray cats into their homes as a new pet without considering how this change of environment will affect the cat or themselves. This is not to discourage folks from taking in homeless cats or kittens; those who do are animal saviors. But let’s go over a few questions that you should ask yourself:

If I take in a feral cat, can they become a happy, welcoming, domestic pet?

• Many cats can transition from feral to domestic behavior. Adult cats have a more difficult time with this change then kittens do. Wild kittens are still in the state of needing to be nursed, nurtured, and needing food to be brought to them. With you as their caregiver, they will be more open and accepting to care and developing trust with their new humans. Kittens will also be able to socialize with other humans and other kittens within some time.

This dirty little baby really needs a loving home.

• Adult cats can change too, but that process will take longer and will require a large amount of patience from their new humans. Keep in mind that adult feral cats were either misplaced, abandoned, or raised in the wild. Developing trust with humans will be hard for such self-reliant and estranged cats.

Should I take my new cat straight home? How do I start training them?

• Once you have a feral cat in your arms, the smartest thing to do is to take them straight to a veterinarian; this is especially true if you have other cats or children in your home. You need to know about past or present injuries and parasites, how the cat behaves with the veterinarian, getting vaccines, and other medical matters before you start the move-in process.
• Once your cat has been cleared by the veterinarian to be taken home, remember to remain patient and to give your new cat plenty of space and alone time to settle into their new environment. Don’t force attention, over stimulation, or snuggling on your new cat. Remember that they need to develop trust with you and that only happens when they can feel safe exploring their new home and when they can take the time to watch and get to know you. Provide your new cat with a quiet and peaceful home as they adjust.

This cat is very curious about what is going on, but he’s not ready to get involved yet.

• In terms of training, I suggest that you show them three areas that will more than likely become safe places for them: where the litter box is, their water and food dishes, and a scratching post. A steady routine of when your cat is being fed will help them figure out when and where they can use the restroom and when they can start playing.

How can I tell is trust is building?

• When your new cat begins to trust you, they will be willing to come near you and may become more loving, too. Remember what I said before: do not force yourself on your new cat. They need to set the pace of interaction with you, they need to observe you from a distance that feels safe for them. They will be close enough to be able to smell, see, and hear you 24/7. When you decide to start playing with them, I suggest a cat pole with feathers or a fake mouse tied to the end.
• Safe places to pet your new cat are the top of their head and their neck when they’re willing to accept your touch. Use treats as rewards and positive reinforcement for their behavior. Remember not to have high expectations, some feral cats will become your best friends where others may not be able to become lap cats. Every cat has a different personality and has had different experiences that will affect the way they integrate into their new life.

Fredrick Douglass and His Story

The brilliantly handsome Fredrick Douglass!

About a year and a half ago, I came home from my boyfriend’s (now husband) fraternity house. I was exhausted and on my way to the restroom to brush my teeth. When I walked in, I heard very loud meowing coming from the room. I couldn’t figure out where the meowing was coming from! It wasn’t until I crouched near the bathtub and I realized there was a cat stuck underneath it! I immediately called my boyfriend and said, “Honey, there’s a kitty inside the bathtub!” Kyle drove over as soon as he could, went to the back of the house, pulled the panels apart and a little blonde cat crawled from under the house and into Kyle’s arms.

After we pulled the burrs and thorns from his coat and paws, we brought him inside and continued cleaning him up. This little cat has become an addition to my household as he and Kyle had imprinted on each other. Kyle had been reading former slave and abolitionist Fredrick Douglass’s autobiography My Bondage and My Freedom before he rescued this cat from the bathtub. Out of inspiration from such a strong man and great author, Kyle named his new cat Fredrick Douglass; Fred or Mr. Douglass for short.

We took him to our veterinarian a few days later and learned that Fred was about eight months old, didn’t have a microchip, and wasn’t neutered. After getting him his needed vaccines and scheduling his neutering appointment, Kyle and I brought him back to my home and began introducing him to my other cats; Missues and Baby Kitty. Fred didn’t have the easiest time adjusting to the other cats at first. He and Baby Kitty fought frequently for dominance and territory. Missues would avoid Fred as much as she could, but would be cornered by him sometimes when he wanted to try to mate.

Baby Kitty watches his new brother Fred with curiosity.

Fred was hesitant to letting me touch him and only accepted pets and snuggles from Kyle. He began spraying in the other cats hiding places to assert his dominance, and even on Kyle’s shoes and dirty clothing. And when it came to feeding, Fred would become aggressive with whoever was eating; growling became the norm when we placed food in front of him, and we had to be fed separately from Baby Kitty and Missues. To say the least, it was a struggle in the beginning.

Kyle was a previous dog owner and, with Fred as his first cat, he was confused with Fred’s behavior. When he picked up Fred, loud grumbles and growls always came, and when we walked past him sometimes Fred would crouch and hiss at us. So, we practiced leaving Fred alone and letting him discover the house, us, and the other cats at his own stride. Of course, when Fred would attack Mr. Baby Kitty or Missues we would put him in a kennel, but other than that we let him do his own thing. Eventually, Fred started sleeping with us. He wouldn’t come close to our faces, but we would curl in a ball at our feet or between our legs. He also started letting me touch him, brush him, and bathe him when was he was dirty.

Baby Kitty and Fred comfortably lounging on their parent’s bed.

After Fred was neutered, he became less hostile and more curious about the other cats and what Kyle and I were doing. He began sitting on the arm of the couches while Kyle read and he laid on my yoga mat, staring into my eyes while I was in downward-facing dog. Fred was staring becoming kinder with Missues, and he  would lay next to her while she slept. He became more affectionate with Baby Kitty, too! Fred isn’t much of a lap cat like his brother is, and he isn’t as introverted as Missues, but he’s adapted well to living in a house with other cats and he loves being able to spend one-on-one time with his Dad and myself when he wants to.

A very happy Fred cuddling with his loving Dad.

If you find a feral cat and they aren’t comfortable with your home or your lifestyle, you can always foster them until you find an appropriate home for them. No-kill shelters and sanctuaries are also a great way to save a life without sacrificing your time, home, or the happiness of the cat you thoughtfully rescued. They may not be the right fit for your home, but you can still help find them their purr-fect forever family.

Elanda-Isabella Atencio, our Feline Editor, is on her road to being a “crazy” cat lady. She has three cats; a moody Missus, a wild Baby Kitty, and notorious Fredrick Douglass. She was raised with cats, chickens, dogs, and geese. From cleaning coops, morning dog runs, picking eggs, to growing catnip, Elanda enjoys pampering her pets. Elanda is a student at New Mexico State University, earning her BA in Creative Writing and is Editor-in-Chief of the online arts journal, Independent Noise and reader for Puerto del Sol. She plans to move to Oregon, where she hopes to take her cats on daily walks when it’s overcast and cool. If you’d like to contact Elanda, email her at eincatencio@gmail.com.

There can’t be many owners who haven’t gone into a state of panic when seeing their beloved horse lying on its side with his eyes closed. Nervously, they call their horse’s name and run anxiously towards him, fearing the worst. The horse lifts his head and reluctantly gets up, looking annoyed at this crazy human being who has disturbed him for no apparent reason! Sound familiar?

It is most likely there was absolutely nothing wrong with the horse, and he was just fast asleep, enjoying a lovely dream!

Many people believe that horses sleep standing up. Although this is partially true, much of an equine’s most important sleep is acquired when lying down.

This little foal is simply enjoying a good old nap.

Horse sleeping patterns are typical of a prey animal. Compared to human beings, equines do not need very much actual sleeping time and usually sleep for short periods throughout the day and night. The reason for this is that they are extremely vulnerable to predators and they must be ready to flee at any moment.

Types of Sleep

Equine sleep is something that people do not tend to think about, especially as there are very few studies regarding this subject. However, it is vital that we understand our horse’s sleeping patterns, as any changes in their usual behaviour could be early indications of health problems.

Equine sleeping habits largely depend on whether they are wild, stabled, or living out at pasture.

This gorgeous horse is relaxing while out at pasture.

There are four stages of the wake/sleep cycle in horses:

1. Wakefulness – During this stage, the horse is completely conscious, spending much of its day eating. In the wild, they go in search of food, often travelling great distances, whereas domestic horses are typically ridden or at pasture.
2. Drowsiness (DR) – Most domesticated horses are stabled inside for long periods, so they relieve their boredom by dozing. The sight is familiar to owners; drooping head and neck, floppy lips, relaxed ears, eyes closed and often standing on three legs, with one hind leg resting. The horse remains in this position because of his ability to lock his knees and stifles, known as “stay apparatus.” The resting hind leg enables him to kick out at any potential predators instantly.
3. Slow Wave Sleep (SWS) – In this stage, the brain is not at its most functioning level and is effectively “sleeping.” The horse must go through Slow Wave Sleep before reaching the deeper REM sleep. The horse can stay standing or rest in sternal recumbency, whereby he lays down with his legs tucked under and the head and neck remaining upright.
4. Rapid Eye Movement (REM) – As the name suggests, REM sleep consists of rapid eye movement and is also known as ‘paradoxical sleep.’ The mind is almost as active as it is during wakefulness and usually dreaming occurs. To achieve this type of sleep, the horse must be lying down, due to the loss of muscle tone at this stage, and preferably flat out if there is sufficient space.

The benefits of quality sleep

Good sleeping patterns allow the horse to function and perform properly. During Slow Wave Sleep (SWS) the brain is resting and in REM sleep the muscles rest.

Equines that are fed regularly throughout the day are more likely to enjoy quality sleep compared to those that only receive their feeds twice a day.

REM sleep affects the horse’s attention during wakefulness. Lack of REM causes the horse to either overreact to situations, becoming extremely alert and difficult to handle or appears lethargic and lazy.

Waking up from a quality nap!

How long do horses sleep?

Where humans typically sleep for about eight hours in one long, uninterrupted stretch, horse’s sleeping habits are polyphasic, meaning they sleep multiple times throughout the day and night.

The average equine usually sleeps from two to four hours over a 24-hour period. Much of that time is spent dozing and approximately two hours are in Slow Wave Sleep (SWS), split into four or five sessions, with wakefulness and REM happening in-between stages. Foals, like any young human or animal, will sleep longer than an adult.

An adult horse spends 45 minutes in REM sleep, occurring in short bursts of up to twenty minutes at a time. To engage in REM, a horse must feel safe in his environment and have a suitable place to lie down.

Equines are unable to lie down for very long as they risk suffering from reperfusion injury. Because horses are such large animals, when they do lie down, blood flow is restricted to certain areas, causing problems as they attempt to stand up again.

The herd instinct

In the wild, a group of horses will use the buddy system where one is on lookout duty, known as the sentinel, while the others sleep. All members of the herd take turns, and this method is also adapted to suit the domesticated, stabled horse and his neighbours.

Sleep disorders in horses

Sleep deprivation

Horses can go several days without REM sleep before you start to notice the effects. There are a variety of reasons why your horse is not sleeping:

Change in environment – Moving to a new barn or sleeping overnight at a showground for a competition can have a profound effect on horses. Many will have little or no sleep until they settle into their new surroundings.

Physical – Often if a horse is in pain, especially in the limbs, they may be physically unable to lie down. Older horses, especially, may find it difficult due to conditions such as osteoarthritis.

This horse does not appear to be sleep deprived!

Isolation – A horse kept alone is likely to be stressed and would have no sentinel to keep guard making him feel vulnerable.

An unsuitable place to lay – Reasons maybe a lack of bedding, too small an area in the stable or wet and muddy conditions if kept out at pasture.

Noisy location – If your barn is located near to a busy road or there is another noisy activity going on, it may cause disturbance to your horse

Feeling unsafe in outdoor environment – There may be wild animals around that make your horse feel insecure and exposed to danger.

Social situation – If your horse is new to a herd or there is an aggressive horse, he may be reluctant to lie down.

Symptoms

If you think your horse is suffering from sleep deprivation, he may display the following symptoms:

• Your horse may not be lying down at all. Tell-tale signs are if you never see bits of bedding or dirt on the body or mane and tail, or your horse doesn’t appear to roll.
• Performance is affected.
• The horse seems drowsy.
• Drifts off into a deep sleep while standing, causing the horse to buckle at the knees due to the muscles relaxing. Usually, they will wake up abruptly as they start to fall. Signs this may have occurred are bruises and grazes on his knees.

Treatment

Once you work out the cause of your horse’s sleep deprivation, you can take measures to treat it and get your horse some much-needed shut-eye.

Moving your horse away from an aggressive equine or noisy environment, or keeping him with others if he is isolated, will help matters. Make sure his stable is big enough for him to lie down in with good bedding.

If he is living out at pasture, ensure there is somewhere dry for him to rest or bring him inside when the weather is bad.

If it is a physical pain or another medical issue that is making him reluctant to lie down, then your veterinary should be consulted.

Your horse may find it stressful travelling to shows and staying overnight, which will affect the quality of his sleep. It may be worth going on the actual day of the competition, so he has benefited from sleeping at home.

Make sure you pay attention to how much sleep your horse is actually getting.

Hypersomnia (Sleeping excessively)

As horses only sleep for a few hours, any horse that wants to sleep continuously is a significant cause for concern.

Reasons could be that your horse is depressed, lacks stimulation, is isolated or suffering from a neurological or infectious disease.

If your horse is sleeping excessively, you should consult your veterinarian.

Final thoughts

It is vital that your horse has the amount of sleep he requires to repair and restore his mental and physical systems. Having good, quality sleep will ensure a good performance from your horse, and he will be much happier and easier to handle as a result.

Alison O’Callaghan, our Equine Editor, is a professional horse riding instructor and has owned many types of pets. When she is not riding horses or walking her dog, she loves to write about animals. If you’d like to contact Alison, you can email her at ocallaghan462@gmail.com.

Hydra enjoys interacting with the plants around the air stone in their tank.

In part one of this series, I spent a lot of time focusing on the size of tank that is considered appropriate for a goldfish home. Now we are going to get that new tank set up so that your fish can move in without too much stress. Getting things ready takes more time than you think, but isn’t necessarily a hassle. Most importantly, if you go through the process carefully, the transition from starter tank to permanent home should be smooth flowing for your finned friends.

One of the most important things about new tank setup from your goldfish’s perspective is the type of habitat you create for them. You are going to need gravel, plants, some kind of air supply, a net, at least one filter, tank cleaning tools, and some decorative objects that are more interactive, which I tend to refer to as “toys.” I could go on for days about brands and styles, but I’d rather let you do your own research on equipment and pick what is right for you. However, I will be giving some very necessary tips for decoration and installation that are important to the health and well-being of your fish.

Gravel

Let’s start with what most people choose to begin with: gravel. Whatever you put in the bottom of the new tank for your goldfish should be 1/8 of an inch or larger. Gravel size is important because your fish can swallow smaller stones or even get them stuck in their mouths. I use pebble sized rocks because Nix and Hydra are big enough now that anything else can easily be swallowed. If it ever looks like your fish could be swallowing gravel, change it out for something larger. Better yet, start with larger gravel and there will be no need to deal with the hassle later on.

This image shows an inappropriate setup for goldfish. The gravel is much too small and there is inadequate plant arrangement to provide them with proper shelter.

Plants

Fish owners usually go for the plants next. Goldfish need multiple plants to feel secure, not just one little thing that they can swim circles around. A variety of different sizes and shapes are necessary to give them proper hiding places and shelter. Goldfish don’t have eyelids, which means that when you suddenly flick a light on, it is startlingly bright and there is nothing they can do about it but dash around in the tank, unless they have plants to provide shadow and a place to hide that lessens the sudden light intensity. They also need to feel a sense of security and too little foliage leaves them feeling constantly vulnerable, which elevates their stress level, lowering their health drastically over time.

You can choose live or fake plants for your new tank, but keep in mind that plants are a part of the natural diet of goldfish, so live ones will most likely be replaced often. Live plants help with the biological balance of the tank, but you can meet these needs with pumps and filters, in which case plastic or silk plants will do just fine. If you decide on live plants, make sure to research which plants are the best match. Never use a plant that has opposite requirements to your fish. You need a live plant that has similar pH, temperature, and light requirements to your goldfish, otherwise you will find yourself unable to make both your fish and your plants happy at the same time. Plants that need artificial light should mostly be avoided because the artificial lights can heat the water, making it too warm and uncomfortable for goldfish. When purchasing fake plants, keep the “stocking test” in mind. If you run pantyhose over the plants and they snag, they are going to be too harsh on your fish when they swim around them.

The plastic plants included in this shot passed the pantyhose test, though they look as if they would not. Always watch your fish for signs of injury and replace plants if torn fins or missing scales are noticed.

Decoration!

The final item you are going to need for your new tank is some form of decorative object for landscaping. Sure, you can go without these, but who wants to see an unhappy fish that is losing color and sulking around their tank because they have nothing to explore? Adding some kind of interactive decoration provides the security and mental stimulation that your fish needs to be happy. The most important thing to remember about goldfish is to NEVER (let me say this again: NEVER!) use seashells in your goldfish aquarium! Seashells and pieces of coral are sharp and porous, meaning they could hurt your fish and will collect food and other debris, upsetting the cleanliness of your water. These items also break down naturally, making the water alkaline, which is not healthy for your fish.

It is always best to buy your decorations from a store that sells aquarium equipment, since they should only be selling items made of safe substances. If you chose to put something natural in your aquarium, look for rocks like slate, hard sandstone, and red shale, making certain they are smooth. When placing your landscaping rocks, be careful that you do not set larger stones in such a way that they could topple over and trap your fish or that the gaps could catch their delicate fins. You can also use petrified wood in your landscape design, but the same rules about sharp edges and toppling apply. Any decoration that has an entrance, such as a cave or building, should be chosen carefully. You need to be sure that your fish can not swim into the opening only to become trapped inside. After a while it is very hard to find objects large enough for growing goldfish to fit through, so don’t be afraid to arrange your tank so that they have a natural cave of sorts in a place between a decorative object and a plant. If they can’t have a real cave, that is the closest thing.

Nix and Hydra used to swim inside this house, now they are as big as it is. They became stressed when I removed this favorite object, so I use plants to create shelter around it. (Some were moved to better display the house for this image.)

Cleaning

Now before you put any of these items into your new tank, you need to clean everything, even if items claim they have already been cleaned. There is no way to know what these items have come in contact with between distribution and the time you picked them up in the store and you don’t want these things getting into the water of your newly created habitat. When it comes to gravel, the stones in those bags are always rubbing against each other, creating dust or breaking rocks, and as I have said before, any particles that are small or sharp could harm your fish.

The most important thing about cleaning items is that you NEVER use soaps and NEVER clean your tank or the items in it with hot water. Hot water will change the bacteria necessary in your tank and while there aren’t any on first set up, there will be some good, helpful bacteria in subsequent tank changes, which the hot water will kill. Soaps and other cleaners should be avoided for the same reasons and because of the chemicals they can introduce into your water. The same rule goes for items that you use to scrub or wipe with. If you decide to use a sponge to clean your tank, make certain you use one that is from the pet store. Any sponge or cleaning tool not made for fish could contain chemicals or glues that should never be placed in your fish tank.

Soaps, sponges, and cloth towels should never be used on your fish tank.

If you want to sterilize something in your tank, use an aquarium salt solution of 6 tablespoons per gallon of water and soak your items in this solution for one hour, then rinse them all THOROUGHLY. Anything you want to dry should be dried with paper towels only, since fibers from cloth become trapped on items and are transferred into your tank. One of the most overlooked items that needs consistent cleaning is the fish net. Don’t forget to clean this EVERY time before you use it. You can also use the net to help you rinse out gravel. If you don’t want to use a net for gravel cleaning, a bucket will do. Just be sure to use a NEW bucket that has NEVER come into contact with soaps or cleaners of any kind, and designate that bucket as the only one to use for tank cleaning.

While all of these steps are extremely important, there is more to come! Keep an eye out for part three which will be out soon!

Mirrani Houpe, our Small Animal Editor, has had rats since she took home her first little boy once they both completed the second grade. Since that time she has owned, rescued and bred many kinds of rats, from many backgrounds. She may not be a vet, psychology major, or scientist, but her babies have her very well trained when it comes to how to care for them. She is constantly working with her family’s veterinarian to come up with new and innovative ways to love and care for the most often misunderstood rodent in the pet world. You can e-mail her at mirrani@yourpetspace.info

Your feline once had you running around the house with feathers in your hands and throwing mouse toys across the room. They might have run around corners and chased you when they were kittens, or crawled up your pant legs all the way to your shoulder! You used to pick out new cat beds and scratching posts for them, and the two of you might have walked through parks, or even gone shopping together. The early years were full of excitement, and the last ones calmed down a bit. Throughout the years, you might have noticed that your cat sleeps more during the day and they may be eating less food, too. They may be less social and cry out loud at night. Less energy, fast weight loss, losing control of bowels, or urination problems are signs that your beloved pet may be getting ready to move on. This might be a painful time for you; your best friend, your long-time companion, will be passing on soon. You may be feeling intense grief and possibly denial, but this is an important time to put your cat first. There are ways to help your pet become more comfortable before they pass on, ways you can be there for them when their time comes, and many ways to celebrate their life and remember them afterwards.

Elanda, her brother Will, and their precious Yellow Kitty.

 Keeping your Cat Comfortable

It’s important to keep your elderly cat happy and to give them the most peaceful environment you can provide. Here are a few ideas to keep in mind and activities you can implement for your cat.

Be gentle with your cat; in the past, they may not have had injuries if you shoo-ed them off the refrigerator and they jumped off, but now your cat could become injured and be in pain if you make them jump from high areas. Pick up your cat from tall areas and gently place him or her on the floor. Make sure to also pick him or her up and place them onto their favorite spots, like a cat tree. Your aging cat isn’t as agile as he or she used to be, so remember to carry him or her and purchase steps and ramps for your cat to get to their favorite high places.

Every kitty deserves to be THIS cozy in their senior years.

Don’t forget to provide your cat with regular visits to the veterinarian; it’s important to know that one year for a cat equals about four human years. Frequent visits to the veterinarian can keep you informed of your aging cat’s health, and it can give you an opportunity to ask a professional for further advice. Your cat may cry in the middle of the night, seek extra attention, or they may sleep for long periods of time. Be kind to your aging cat, try not to let the small annoyances get to you. He or she is scared about the change in their body and mind and they need your comfort and love during this transition.

He may have become a grumpy old man, but he’s still your baby.

Your cat may start using the bathroom outside of the litter box. Make sure to watch your aging cat as much as you can while they use the restroom. If they’re having problem squatting, purchase a cat box with a lower entrance and high walls for support. If you would rather deal without litter, you can always purchase puppy pads for your cat to use the restroom. Don’t forget to provide your cat with comfy spots around the house with pillows and blankets for them to relax and sleep on. And remember to keep your cat hydrated by placing plenty of water bowls around the house, particularly near their favorite spots.

When Their Time Comes

You know your cat the best, and you will know when their time is coming to leave this earth. Putting your cat to sleep is a personal and intense choice that only you can make for them. Your veterinarian might suggest that your cat should be put down because of their quality of life, but ultimately it is your decision to make for your beloved cat. Having an understanding of the symptoms of old age will help you make the choice decision for your cat.

One early symptom you may see in your aging cat when they are ready to move on is, when your cat uses the restroom, there may be a foul odor after their bathroom time. This happens when toxins begin building up in your cat’s body. This smell may also occur in their breath, and eventually will emit from their body. Later symptoms will be a loss of appetite, and your cat may stop eating and drinking all together. Towards the time of their departure, your cat will also have lower respiration. They will take fewer breaths, and there will be more time between breaths than before. You might also notice a lower body temperature due to their dropping heart rate as well. When your cat’s body temperature drops to 98 fahrenheit or lower, their body will feel cool to your touch.

Always take your cat to the vet upon any sign of trouble.

When your cat is showing these signs, you should take them to the veterinarian. If you do so, you have the option to put your cat to sleep. If you choose this option, your veterinarian will administer an injection that will slow your cat’s heart – this is not a painful procedure at all. You will be able to stay with your cat through the process, and when you do say goodbye, hold your cat, give him or her kisses, and tell them that you love them. Sing to your cat, pet him or her, and do everything you can to make them feel loved and safe on this day.

Afterwards

Once you have put your cat to peace and relieved them of their pain, learn to understand your own feelings about the loss of your beloved cat. It is normal for you to feel anger or deep sadness, these feelings are a part of the framework that helps us learn to live without the loved ones we have lost. Allow yourself to feel your emotions and make sure not to repress them. Cry and mourn your cat, but always remember the wonderful moments you two shared. To honor your cat, you have a few options of what you can do after putting them to sleep.

You can provide a proper burial for your cat. Pick a site where you would like to have your cat placed. Maybe in your backyard, or at your cat’s favorite park. Wherever you decide, pick a special or symbolic place where it can be decorated with photos of your cat or where you can place their favorite toys. You can also order a grave marker for your cat, with their name and an etching. Don’t forget to pick a container for your cat’s body; there are Paw Pet Burial Pods and Pet Caskets available to purchase online for your cat. But if you prefer no box that is perfectly fine too. Some honor their cat by placing flower seeds or a small tree over their burial site.

Paw Pods could be a good choice for your beloved kitty.

Of course you always have the option to cremate your cat and you can order vases online. You can place the vase in their favorite window sill or above your fireplace. Some owners have a difficult time with the idea of parting with their pet and decide to have their cat cremated and turned into jewels. Heart in Diamond will “immortalize your pet’s beautiful life with a Heart in Diamond that will allow you to feel like your best fur friend is with you every day”. If you decide this is your option you can select a portion of your cat’s remains to create the jewel that represents them, or the love you feel for them.

You can keep your pet in a necklace next to your heart forever.

In the end, always remember your cat for who he or she was to you, and remember the life you gave them. When my old cat Yellow Kitty passed away, I wasn’t able to be there for him in his last days. Thankfully he lived a long life; one of freedom and strength. I miss and love him, and hold his memory in my heart daily. Remember to give your cats love, and be devoted to them. After all, they are your furry babies.

Elanda-Isabella Atencio, our Feline Editor, is on her road to being a “crazy” cat lady. She has three cats; a moody Missus, a wild Baby Kitty, and notorious Fredrick Douglass. She was raised with cats, chickens, dogs, and geese. From cleaning coops, morning dog runs, picking eggs, to growing catnip, Elanda enjoys pampering her pets. Elanda is a student at New Mexico State University, earning her BA in Creative Writing and is Editor-in-Chief of the online arts journal, Independent Noise and reader for Puerto del Sol. She plans to move to Oregon, where she hopes to take her cats on daily walks when it’s overcast and cool. If you’d like to contact Elanda, email her at eincatencio@gmail.com.

Now that you have your gravel and your plants and decorations ready to go, take them all over to where you have decided to set up your tank, but before you put in even one drop of water, I want you to play a little game with me called “Let’s Clean the Tank.” In this game we get to act like preschoolers and do a lot of pretending. Stay with me now, because this isn’t as crazy as it sounds. Once you put all of the necessary items and water into your tank, you aren’t going to be able to move your aquarium without taking everything out again, including the water, so this is actually an important step of the initial set up of your goldfish home.

Grab whatever tools you will be using to clean your tank and pretend to do the cleaning. Get that vacuum to the bottom and move it around the imaginary gravel, “clean” all four sides of the tank, pretend to change and check the filters, and pretend to plug them in. Were you able to do everything without too much trouble? Was it hard to reach the back of your tank? Did the filter get caught between the tank and the wall? If any part of the tank was hard to reach, you might want to think about moving things around a little. Make sure you can reach every area easily. If everything is accessible, you are ready for fish “furniture” and decoration.

Once you have washed out the inside of your tank, you are ready to add some water. Water anywhere is okay for use, but if you are using city water, you must add a chlorine remover or the water must be left to stand for at least 24 hours so that the chlorine disperses completely.  Fill the tank tank 1/3 of the way with water, and put the gravel in next. Pouring water in last stirs up too much debris, even if the gravel has been washed, and especially once the tank is established.

A long shot of my tank, showing the perspective that my fish have as they swim from one side to the other.

Tank Set Up

Now we have come to the fun part! You get to be the moving company and interior decorator for your fish Most people with aquariums slope their gravel so that there is a taller pile of it in the back and a smaller pile of it in the front. You won’t do this if you have an under gravel filter, but if you are using above gravel filters it is a perfectly acceptable, and often preferable, practice. Not only does it give your fish the uneven depths that they would find in the wild, but it helps you in cleaning. Anything dropping to the bottom of the tank will eventually roll to the front, making it easier to make quick vacuum runs more frequently, though you should regularly vacuum your entire aquarium when needed. Sloping the gravel this way also displays your items at different levels, meaning that you can see more of what you have planted or placed inside, increasing the aesthetic appeal for anyone viewing your fish.

Putting plants and decorations in before the gravel guarantees that they are in a secure place, on a flat surface with the weight of the gravel holding them down. Putting plants and decorations in after means they are easier to move around. Whichever way you choose to add your decorations, make certain the objects are stable enough that when your fish swims around them, they do not become trapped or caught in something that falls over from their movement.

Typically, taller plants go to the back and smaller plants are placed forward. You want a balance with plant placement; something that gives your fish a feeling of safety, but also displays as much of your tank as possible for anyone who has come to view it. Too many large plants at the front will also block the light that enters your fish tank from the room. One larger plant blocking an intrusive light would be acceptable, if the rest of the tank were allowed to have light entering freely. In my setup, I have all of my large plants in the back and one specifically blocking some of the light that comes from the window. I prefer to give my fish access to a minimal amount of natural light by placing my tanks with one small fraction of their surface so that it gets early morning sun. This wakes the fish in a natural way before I come barging in, flicking on light switches and literally pestering the poop out of them.

I’m not going to give you a map of where to put your plants, air producers, rocks, floating toys, or anything else that you decide to use for your landscaping. That is all up to your personal aesthetics, just look at what you have, play around with your setup and find something that looks appealing to your eye and will be stimulating to your fish. Give them a place to hide, but don’t smother them so much that they can’t move or be seen. Believe it or not, once your fish feel settled in your household, they will actually WANT to interact with you. My Nix and Hydra actually get upset if we are across the room from them for too long and begin spitting and knocking things around to get our attention. Fish are schooling animals and you will become part of their school in some way or another, especially with goldfish, who are more intelligent than most people give them credit for.

The gap between the air stone and large plants behind it provides Nix and Hydra with shelter and casts shadows when the sun shines in for a few hours each morning.

Once you have everything just right, you can fill the tank the rest of the way, turn on the filtration systems… and hurry up and wait. Yep, I said wait. It is much too stressful for your fish to be suddenly dumped into a freshly created environment, no matter how well you have cleaned and prepared it. Imagine having a giant snatch you up and without warning, drop you into his massive Jacuzzi. Sure you could get used to it eventually, but I bet you’d be in a little bit of shock for a while before that happened.

Give the filters a chance to settle any tiny particles that you missed and naturally adjust the pH and temperature. Make sure the water coming out is as close to the surface as possible. It should be a water flow, not a water fall. When you have let everything run for 24 hours, it is safe to get some bacteria into your tank. This is the good stuff that comes from gravel in a tank that is already established. You only want a handful of this gravel and you will place it in with your own. If the gravel is different and you don’t want it to stand out, you can bury it in a pile under what you already have. If it is a safe size for your fish, and if you are happy enough with its appearance, you can mix it right in.

Because I have kept tanks for so long, I have rarely needed to go to an outside source for this step, but if you have no idea where to turn for this, ask the store where you buy your fish. I prefer to get some gravel and plenty of extra water from the tank that the fish were in at the store. Theoretically they are used to this bacteria already and you are not introducing anything new, like illnesses, that could have come from other tanks. If you have picked out healthy fish from a healthy aquarium, the handful of gravel you get for them should be just right.

Introducing Your Goldfish

Once all of this has been done, you can introduce your goldfish into your tank. Moving in is one of the most serious parts of goldfish care. This is the easiest way to transfer diseases, shock your fish into illness, or worse. The first week in their new tank is when your fish are the most vulnerable. When you bring your fish home from the store, ask the clerk to double or triple bag them and keep your fish in those bags until you get them into your house. Remember that in that tiny bag they have nowhere to go and no way to protect themselves from the intensity of the sun.

No education here, just fun as Nix photobombs my underwater camera.

We all know the trick about floating your bag in the established aquarium water so that the water in the bag slowly becomes the same temperature as the water in the tank. What most people do after that is cut a hole in the bag and dump the fish into the tank. It is important to remember the bacteria levels in the water will not be the same as those your new fish has experienced in its previous home. It is very necessary to help your fish adjust to this new chemistry in a healthy and stress free way. To do this, open the bag carefully and add a cup of the aquarium water to the bag. Close the bag and let your fish adjust to that new bacteria and chemical balance for a good 10 minutes or more. Open the bag again, remove one cup of the water from the bag and dump it out in the sink, into a bucket, into your plant, anywhere EXCEPT into the fish tank, then add another cup of water from the tank into the bag, close and wait some more.

Once you have waited a total of 20 or 30 minutes for both of these water changes, pick up your fish net, hold it over a bucket or some other container, and gently pour your goldfish into the net, letting the water drain out and be collected in the bucket below. (I do NOT suggest doing this over the sink or plant because if your fish gets frisky, you don’t want it in the drain, or flopping around in the dirt.) Why are you doing this instead of dumping the bag into the tank? If there are any diseases in the water from your store, they will go into the bucket and you have severely minimized the risk of transferring these illnesses to your aquarium. You can now put the net into the tank and let your new fish swim happily into its established home. These steps should be taken any time you move a fish from one aquarium to another, even in your own home.

Now you can settle down and enjoy your new family members. You might think this is the end of my fish keeping lesson, but it is really only the middle point in your journey through goldfish care. If you can’t wait to read my next post on feeding and behavior, I highly recommend getting the book, Goldfish: A Complete Pet Owner’s Manual by Marshall E. Ostrow. I have used this book as a reference many times in the past and continue to use it as a reference for this series of posts.

Mirrani Houpe, our Small Animal Editor, has had rats since she took home her first little boy once they both completed the second grade. Since that time she has owned, rescued and bred many kinds of rats, from many backgrounds. She may not be a vet, psychology major, or scientist, but her babies have her very well trained when it comes to how to care for them. She is constantly working with her family’s veterinarian to come up with new and innovative ways to love and care for the most often misunderstood rodent in the pet world. You can e-mail her at mirrani@yourpetspace.info

Today I am very excited to tell you that we have a new Associate Editor,

Doug White!

Doug came to work for us at Your Pet Space in April of this year, and quickly has become one of our best all around dog handlers, front desk assistants and merchandisers!  Many of you reading this have interacted with Doug at the front desk on Monday or Tuesday evenings, checking your dogs in or out.

Here is even more about Doug:

Doug has worked in customer service for over 24 years, with 13 years of that experience being at Chuck E. Cheese’s. (And, yes, he wore the mouse costume throughout that adventure). He has four little four-legged munchkins in his family named Peeta, Clyde, Oreo, and Peggy Sue. After adopting Clyde from Safe Haven Animal Sanctuary in 2013, he began volunteering for the organization. This experience ignited a passion for learning about different dog breeds and individual dogs’ varying personalities. Doug is a huge country music fan, an avid reader of sci-fi/fantasy/horror, and a (very) amateur gardener and hiker.

Doug plans to sit for his Professional Animal Care Provider exam in October, and we have no doubt he’ll pass with flying colors!

SO YOU KNOW WHO TO CONTACT FOR WHAT NOW THAT DOUG HAS COME ABOARD:

Joy/Publisher joy@yourpetspace.info

1) Purchases content
2) Promotes the publication to be an editorial and commercial success
3) Manages the magazine so that it provides readers with high quality content
4) Defines the editorial positions/hires new editors
5) May assist with posting content to the site

Jessica/Managing Editor managerjessica@yourpetspace.info

1) suggests ideas, receives article pitches
2) assigns article ideas to the editors
3) handles problems, keeps the editorial staff on schedule and answers questions from department editors
4) determines the importance of articles and what goes up in what order
5) May assist with posting content to the site

Doug/Associate Editor  assoceditordoug@yourpetspace.info

1. Assists the Managing editor and the Publisher with…
2. Writing, editing, story selection
3. Receives and sifts through the submissions and sends the best to the Managing Editor, who will confer with the Publisher on selections
4. Posts selected content to the site

I’m very excited for those of you who will get to interact with Doug for the first time.  He’s a lot of fun, and very kind and caring to our pet cadets!

Again, Congratulations, Doug!

Today I am very excited to tell you that we have a new Managing Editor,

Jessica Smith!

Jessica came to work for us at Your Pet Space just before Christmas last year, and we couldn’t have asked for a better holiday gift!  Many of you reading this have interacted with Jessica as my second at the front desk at Your Pet Space, spoken to her on the phone or received a few of her e-mails.  Perhaps you’ve even read some of her writing on pets, which shows up regularly here in our online magazine, or seen her charming Instagram posts that include your pets, all smiling and trending.

Here is even more about Jessica:

Having been raised in a household full of dogs, guinea pigs, hamsters, and all things furry, Jessica’s love of animals has only grown over the years. She is currently volunteering for Safe Haven Animal Sanctuary in her free time when she isn’t out and about with her ridiculous pit bull mix, Annabel Lee, or taking care of her two gold fish, Carrot Cake and Winchester. She is also putting her literature degree to use by working as an editor for a local online magazine, Independent Noise. While she has no plans for the future, she knows that it will be filled with fur and fiction galore.

Thanks to client John Hesse’s endorsement, Jessica will also be sitting for her Professional Animal Care Provider exam in June, and we have no doubt she’ll pass with flying colors!

SO YOU KNOW WHO TO CONTACT FOR WHAT NOW THAT JESSICA HAS COME ABOARD:

Joy/Publisher joy@yourpetspace.info

1) Purchases content
2) Promotes the publication to be an editorial and commercial success
3) Manages the magazine so that it provides readers with high quality content
4) Defines the editorial positions/hires new editors
5) May assist with posting content to the site

Jessica/Managing Editor managerjessica@yourpetspace.info

1) suggests ideas, receives article pitches
2) assigns article ideas to the editors
3) handles problems, keeps the editorial staff on schedule and answers questions from department editors
4) determines the importance of articles and what goes up in what order
5) May assist with posting content to the site

I’m very excited for those of you who will get to interact with Jessica for the first time. I have found her a pleasure to work with in every capacity, as she treats every single pet, whether here at the facility or in print, as if it were her own.

If you haven’t yet seen her writing, a couple of her previously submitted articles are here:

My Dog Has Allergies: Now, What?

Feeding Dogs Human Food: How To Change Your Ways

Congratulations again, Jessica!

Your best friend has a cat, your sister just got two kittens for her kids, and even your mom took in a cat…so you decide to get a cat too! You’re probably thrilled as you scroll through the photos of cats up for adoption at your local animal shelters, and you should be! Keep in mind that there are a few questions you should consider. Will I have enough time to dedicate to my new cat as they settle into their new home? Will my cat be friendly to my guests? Should I get a more independent breed? These are all very important questions, but before you begin selecting cat breeds and picking out combs and collars, start doing research to figure out how much adopting your new cat will cost you. Most of the following information is from the Simple Dollar’s Pet Ownership Costs Guide.

Every cat deserves a cozy bed to call their own!

Initial Cost

The initial cost for your new cat is your adoption or purchase fee, vaccination fees, and cat equipment. One of the perks about cats is that they are generally less expensive than dogs, especially when it comes to illnesses or injuries. The costs are much, much lower! When it comes to adoption, the breed of your desired cat can affect the adoption price dramatically, especially if you purchase your new cat from a breeder. For instance, an American Bobtail can cost between $500 to $700, whereas the average price of a Maine Coon is $1,000.

But if you adopt a cat from your local shelters, you might only be charged between $50 to $175 for your adoption fee. Luckily, some shelters will even provide a microchip, a spay or neuter operation, and vaccinations for your new cat without charge.

How much am I worth?!

If you’re adopting a kitten, the veterinarian will probably insist on a few vaccinations that will protect your cat later in life. These vaccinations include feline leukemia, rabies, panleukopenia, and calicivirus. Keep in mind that each vaccination can cost between $50 to $100, and you may have to pay an additional fee for any booster shots. Heartworm prevention medication is very important for cats because there is not an approved medication for heartworm treatment for them. Make sure to get the prevention medication, especially if you live in a Northern or Tropical area.

Once you finally bring your new cat home, you can start buying cat equipment for them! Some basics are a water and food bowl, cat food, a cat box with a scooper, cat litter, and a cat bed. If you feel that you want to get more for your cat, there are cat houses, scratching posts and window perches that you can purchase for your cat. Some stores even sell treats like Catnip Grass and mouse toys. If you want to purchase more cat tools, here’s a list!

• Collar
• Cat Litter Deodorizer
• Name tag and your name, address, and phone number
• Non-toxic Cleanser
• Undercoat brush
• Nail Clippers
• Feline toothpaste and toothbrush 

Medical Care

If you adopt a cat from a shelter, you may be charged for their spay or neuter operation. And if you take in a stray, you will need to schedule your cat’s operation soon. Some people are against spaying and neutering, but according to Spay USA, both genders benefit from the operation. Female cats won’t have heat cycles, the chance of uterine, ovarian, and mammary gland tumors can be reduced or eliminated, and it helps reduce the number of stray cats roaming without a home. For male cats, neutering at a young age eliminates spraying or marking of territory, it lessens their desire to try to roam outside, chances of prostate and testicular cancer reduce, there can be a decrease in aggressive or hostile behavior, and they may be better behaved.

Neutered, and more handsome than ever!

During their recovery stage, remember to keep your home quiet and peaceful, try to prevent them from jumping and running for at least two weeks, do not allow them to lick their incision, and check their incision daily to make sure there is no redness, discharge, or swelling. If there is, take your cat to the nearest animal hospital immediately. Make sure to keep up with regular check ups as frequently as you can to keep them as healthy as possible.

Depending on the breed of your cat, you may be faced with specific medical issues. Because of selective breeding, breeders often decide to pass on specific traits and many purebred cats are prone to medical concerns because of this breeding method. Balinese cats may suffer from Nystagmus (a neurological disorder which causes rapid eye movement), Lymphoma, Megaesophagus, Aortic Stenosis, Asthma and Amyloidosis (a disease that happens when a type of protein called amyloid is deposited in body organs).

Devon Rex cats can suffer from Urticaria Pigmentosa (a dermatological problem that causes sores that become crusty on their body), Hip Dysplasia, and Congenital Hypotrichosis (hereditary baldness).

These cats look very different from each other, and they have their own health issues to go with their unique looks.

And the Himalayan cat suffers from Seborrhea Oleosa, Feline Hyperesthesia (a nervous system disorder), Progressive Retinal Atrophy, or Dental Malocclusions (cat’s teeth don’t fit well together). Regardless of your cat’s breed, remember to schedule your cat for routine (annually or biannually) veterinary visits; but remember to put aside funds for unexpected accidents or illnesses that may occur. If you adopt a cat who turns out to have physical or mental disabilities, you may have to seek specific professional medical care for your cat.

Feeding

Although feeding may seem like one the easiest parts of being a cat owner, it can be a more difficult process then some owners anticipate. Ideally, you should feed your cat a medium to high quality food. Avoid Science Diet, Fancy Feast, and Iams. Some of the best diets you can provide for your cat are raw, homemade food, human-grade canned food, or Blue Buffalo dry food. Visit Better Life Natural Pet Foods for even more detailed information and personalized help for your cat’s feeding.

Your cat would be more than thrilled to have an all-natural diet!

Keep in mind that cats can develop allergies to food that is most frequently fed to them, so remember to keep your cat’s diet flexible, especially if you’ll be feeding them dry food. Cats mostly develop allergies to beef, seafood, soy, wheat gluten, lamb, corn, and dairy products. If you notice itchy skin, vomiting, hair loss or scratching, take your cat to a veterinarian and change their diet.

Grooming

Some people forget that their cats need grooming, the same way we need to groom ourselves daily. Your cat’s hair length can generally determine the routine you create for your cat. A shorthaired breed like an Egyptian Mau, Burmese, American Shorthair, or a Savannah cat may have to brushed once or twice every two weeks. A longhaired breed such as a Persian, Ragdoll, Birman, or a Somali cat should be brushed every day. If you decide to give your cat a bath, you may expect a few scratches. If you decide to take your cat to a professional groomer, you may be charged between $30 to $50; but you can also purchase cat bathing wipes for your feline instead of water and soap. Remember to clean your cat’s ears to prevent infections from growing wax, and to keep their claws trimmed to avoid splintering of broken claws.

Fredrick Douglass and his dad enjoying some outdoor playtime.

If you use the TSD Pet Cost Calculator, you’ll be able to roughly calculate what your first-year costs for your new cat. For instance, I put in the information for the most recent addition to my family, Fredrick Douglass. With his vaccines, cost of food, toys, a litter box, bowls, collar and harness, and the amount of days I travel a year, it’s calculated that I will spend about $985 a year on Frederick Douglass.

Test it out for your new pet, and good luck finding your purr-fect pal!

Elanda-Isabella Atencio, our Feline Editor, is on her road to being a “crazy” cat lady. She has three cats; a moody Missus, a wild Baby Kitty, and notorious Fredrick Douglass. She was raised with cats, chickens, dogs, and geese. From cleaning coops, morning dog runs, picking eggs, to growing catnip, Elanda enjoys pampering her pets. Elanda is a student at New Mexico State University, earning her BA in Creative Writing and is Editor-in-Chief of the online arts journal, Independent Noise and reader for Puerto del Sol. She plans to move to Oregon, where she hopes to take her cats on daily walks when it’s overcast and cool. If you’d like to contact Elanda, email her at eincatencio@gmail.com.

Summer may be the favorite season for many, but for horse owners, it can create several challenges. Equines become hot much more quickly than humans do, and the effects can have serious consequences if they aren’t managed correctly.

The horse’s body has evolved over time to cope more easily with cold weather conditions than with the heat. It is, therefore, essential that owners provide the right care for their horses during summer months to keep them in good health.

In this article, we look at four conditions associated with hot weather, how to spot the symptoms, and what action you should take.

Itchiness is a common symptom seen in several of these conditions.

Anhidrosis

What Is It?

Anhidrosis is a Greek word, which translates to “without sweating.” A horse with this condition is incapable of sweating, and those that suffer from it are also known as non-sweaters, puffers, and dry-coated horses.

What happens is that the sweat glands become over stimulated and then shut down completely. The exact cause is not known, but it is common in horses that have been moved to hot and humid climates.

The condition was first recorded in the 1920s when the British moved their racehorses and polo ponies to colonies such as India and Malaysia and noticed that they didn’t sweat.

Horses, like humans, cool their bodies through sweating. When they are unable to do this, their body temperature remains high, which puts them at risk for heat stroke. It is very dangerous and it can potentially result in death.

It affects horses of any age or breed, whether they are exercised or not, but dark horses tend to be most susceptible.

This horse with anhidrosis is getting a cooling rinse-off after exercising.

Symptoms

If your horse suffers from anhidrosis, he will display some or all of the following symptoms:

• Coat that is dry and hot to touch after exercise
• Laboured breathing during and after exercise with flared nostrils
• High temperature
• Increased heart rate
• Lethargy and exhaustion
• Poor coat that is thin and patchy
• Facial hair loss
• Loss of appetite
• Decreased water consumption

What Action to Take

If you think your horse has anhidrosis, your veterinarian will probably do an intradermal terbutaline sweat test. Diagnosing the condition is much easier than controlling it, but it can eventually disappear.

Here are some ways that you can manage a horse with anhidrosis during the summer months:

• Ride when the temperatures are cooler, either early in the morning or late in the evening.
• Take frequent breaks during riding and note how hard your horse is breathing. Watch that he doesn’t overheat.
• Compete at cooler times of the year, as most shows will be held during the daytime in summer.
• After exercise, move him into some shade and cool him down by splashing cold water on his body, neck and legs. Scrape the water off and repeat the process.
• Turn him out during the night.
• During the day, keep him in a well-ventilated barn with fans.
• Ensure fresh water is consistently available.
• Give electrolytes.

If the condition persists and your horse continues to suffer, the only way to cure anhidrosis is to move him to a cooler climate.

Dehydration

What Is It?

Dehydration happens when the loss of fluids from the horse exceeds the fluid intake from food and water.

It is caused by either persistent diarrhea or extreme sweating during strenuous exercise. A horse can lose 10 to 15 liters (nearly 4 gallons) of sweat in one hour, especially when it is hot and humid, and they may struggle to cool down afterwards.

This horse is trying to stay properly hydrated.

As a result, the horse loses vital fluids and electrolytes. Electrolytes perform many functions in your horse’s body and have the same elements as seawater:

• Sodium (Na)
• Magnesium (Mg)
• Calcium (Ca)
• Potassium (K)
• Chloride (Cl)

The danger of dehydration is that sometimes it can be difficult to detect. If left untreated, it can lead to conditions such as colic, kidney failure and azoturia (an abnormal excess of nitrogen compounds in the urine).

Symptoms

To check if your horse is dehydrated, pinch a fold of his skin and then let it go. With a properly hydrated horse, the skin will instantly spring back into place, but if he is dehydrated, it will take a few seconds to return to normal.

Other symptoms include:

• Frequent, shallow breaths
• Sunken eyes
• Lethargy
• Depression
• Gums not pink
• Dry skin and mouth
• Increased heart rate
• Urine dark colored with a powerful odour
• Thick and sticky saliva
• Tucked-up appearance

What Action to Take

Prevention of dehydration is better than a cure.

An average horse’s body contains approximately 70% water, meaning he will usually drink between 5 to 15 gallons of water daily, depending on the amount of exercise they are receiving and the climate.

It is, therefore, vital that clean, fresh water is continuously available.

Adding apple juice or molasses to the water is also a good idea. Once your horse is familiar with the taste, you can add it to the drinking water at shows, as many equines are reluctant to drink when they are away from home.

These guys aren’t at home, but it is crucial for them to have access to water wherever there are.

Ensure that your horse has free access to salt, either loose or via a salt lick, to encourage him to drink and replace lost minerals and electrolytes. Also, many veterinarians now suggest feeding electrolytes daily all year round.

With mild forms of dehydration, offer your horse two buckets of water; one with electrolytes and one plain, allowing him to choose.

Make sure your horse stands in the shade and cool him down by cold hosing. More severe cases will require immediate veterinary treatment, giving fluids via a nasogastric tube.

Sweet Itch

What Is It?

Sweet itch, also known as Pruritus Threshold, is an allergic reaction in horses triggered by the saliva of biting insects, such as midges, lice, black flies and horse flies. Allergies and infections can also be a cause.

With this condition, the horse suffers unbearable and extreme itchiness.

The condition is more common in areas that are prone to bugs, such as ponds, swamps, and bogs and is made worse by hot and humid weather.

A horse suffering from sweet itch, in search of relief, can rub hair completely off the afflicted area, breaking open the skin, which can then become infected.

It affects any part of the horse’s body but is mostly found on the belly, face, back, mane and tail.

All of these flies would certainly BUG me!

Symptoms

If you think your horse has sweet itch, he will display the following symptoms:

• Mild to severe rubbing
• Loss of mane and tail hair
• Bald patches
• Sections of sore, swollen, open and broken skin which may bleed

What Action to Take

During spring and summer, protect your horse from biting insects by:

• Spraying fly repellent on him
• Use fly masks and sheets
• Stable from 4 pm to 8 am when biting insects are most active
• Use a ceiling fan in his stable
• Do not stable him near woodland or boggy areas
• Cut sweet foods from your horse’s diet
• Add garlic to feed (the smell deters insects!)

When treating sweet itch, it is essential that you consult your veterinarian who can then do a skin scraping to diagnose the cause.

Medication, such as steroids or antibiotics, may be administered along with the appropriate creams, lotions, and shampoos.

Your veterinarian can advise you accordingly as to what is the best cause of action for your horse.

Sunburn

What Is It?

Sunburn, also known as Erythema Solare, is the burning of skin due to over-exposure to UV radiation and it can be extremely painful.

Any horse or pony can get sunburned, but grays, Pintos, Cremellos, Appaloosas, and those with white face and leg markings or pink muzzles, are most susceptible. Foals and yearlings are also particularly prone.

Sometimes you have to protect your horse from the sun’s harmful rays in style!

Symptoms

When an unprotected horse has exposure to the sun for a length of time, he is likely to show the following symptoms:

• Skin that appears red and painful
• Skin is hot and sore to touch
• Skin is dry and cracked
• The skin bleed or be weepy
• Blisters
• Patches of hair loss
• Inflammation
• Peeling of skin

The symptoms of sunburn can lead to dehydration and stress in your horse, caused by the heat and pain, and it may result in colic or liver damage.

Burning rays can damage the skin, cause scarring, and continuous overexposure may lead to skin cancer, squamous cell carcinoma, whereby cancerous growths appear on or around the eyelids.

Treatment

Protect your horse from the sun by:

• Stabling during the day– Keep your horse in a well-ventilated stable during the hottest part of the day. If your horse must be out, ensure that he has proper shade.
• Sunscreen/sunblock– There are many brands that are formulated for horses, or you can use one for humans that are at least 30 SPF. Products containing zinc oxide are particularly useful. Using brightly colored sunscreen is a helpful indication as to when it is wearing off and needs re-applying.
• Protective clothing– There are several sun-blocking fly sheets, fly masks (some with a flap that reaches to the horse’s nose for extra protection), and hoods available on the market now.

If your horse does have sunburn, treat it the same way you would treat your own. Using Aloe Vera sunburn treatments are very soothing and help to heal your horse’s skin. Otherwise, antiseptic ointments such as Sudocream are also good.

If the sunburn does not appear to be healing, contact your veterinarian who may prescribe an antibiotic cream or ointment.

If you have protected your horse against sunburn and he still shows symptoms, there may be individual plants that are causing toxicity and photosensitivity to him. Call your veterinarian who can identify any plants in the area that may cause a sunburn-like reaction.

Also, it is possible that any medication your horse is on may cause the same symptoms and must be investigated by your veterinarian.

By taking these preventative measures, you should be able to keep your horse cool, hydrated, happy and healthy during those long, summer months.

Alison O’Callaghan, our Equine Editor, is a professional horse riding instructor and has owned many types of pets. When she is not riding horses or walking her dog, she loves to write about animals. If you’d like to contact Alison, you can email her at ocallaghan462@gmail.com. 

The cold winter has ended, and we are in full bloom for a gorgeous spring season. With this changing of the season, we are not only going to see the beautiful colors of blossoming flowers, but also the colors of fabulous plumage on our wild birds. Many different birds are migrating in from their winter territories to travel up north to their nesting grounds and summer homes. Many of our yearlong residents are even changing their colors in preparation for this lovely season. The reason why many of these birds are changing colors and heading this way is for nesting. The bright plumage and various singing patterns help these birds find mates. Soon after the birds pair up, they will settle down and, based on their unique instincts, begin to nest, lay eggs, and raise their young.

For many birds, this system may occur only once per season or it can happen multiple times through several broods of chicks. Each species of birds is special and they all have their own unique methods when it comes to nesting season, but knowing who is nesting, what will be happening, and where to look for these nesting birds will help us enjoy our feathered friends during this season. We can even help their growth! This article will discuss the different types of birds that we may expect to see here in the Las Cruces area, as well as different backyard feeding that we can offer to increase the chances of viewing these colored beauties and seeing their young hatchlings.

Mourning Dove nesting on an outside light.

Hummingbirds

One of our all-time favorite migrators has to be hummingbirds. These fleeting birds with brightly colored feathers are some of the most popular birds at our backyard bird feeders. So simple and easy to feed, it’s a breeze to catch a glimpse of one from your flower bed or nectar hummingbird feeders. Hummingbirds begin migrating back up through our area by mid-March from their winter habitats in Central and South America. Over 330 hummingbird species have been identified in the Americas, but only about 16 of these species will travel up through North America. The species that travel north do so in search of their nesting sites. As they travel this long journey, hummers will continuously be looking for food. A hummingbird will be able to drink at least 2 times their body weight per day. Offering nectar is a great way to assist these hungry hummers and give you a chance to view them more closely. It is also very easy to make your own nectar at home instead of constantly purchasing it.

The recipe is: 4 cups of boiling water mixed with 1 cup of regular table sugar. Just stir the sugar into the boiled water until the sugar is dissolved and then let the nectar sit until room temperature before filling the feeder.

An example of a leak proof hummingbird feeder.

Use feeders that have either red flowers or red lids instead of nectar dyed red. Hummingbirds can only see the color red, so many stores sell premade nectar that is dyed red. This can be much more harmful to the birds. It is best to stick with clear nectar and red feeders than to risk harming the birds with food coloring.

Features to look for when purchasing a hummingbird feeder include:

• Red coloration
• Easy to clean (must be cleaned before refilling to prevent bacteria)
• Easy to fill
• Easy to hang
• The nectar ports should be above the nectar surface to preventing dripping
• Ability to add an ant moat or other deterrent to prevent ants from entering your feeder

The main species of hummingbirds we will spot in and around Las Cruces are: Broad-tailed Hummingbirds, Black Chinned Hummingbirds, Anna’s Hummingbirds, Rufous Hummingbirds (arriving in July), Calliope Hummingbirds, and Magnificent Hummingbirds. Offering a hummingbird feeder and having flowering plants will help you attract hummers to your yard. Displaying a nesting ball made of natural cotton and other nest-safe materials will help the female hummers build a nest. If you see a female hummingbird collecting nesting material, you will see her immediately fly back to her nest site and you might be able to watch the young hummers grow.

Four common male Hummingbird species found in New Mexico: Top Left: Broad-Tailed Hummingbird Top Right: Anna’s Hummingbird Bottom Left: Black Chinned Hummingbird Bottom Right: Rufous Hummingbird

Orioles

Orioles are very shy birds, and they are also very colorful. The males will show off bright orange or yellow plumage and will sing a sweet song high up in the tree tops. Orioles travel up from Central and South America to our area by early April to mate and nest. Orioles are very fond of places with tall trees and plants in wide open areas. Places like parks or backyards with a few tall trees interspersed with open fields and a steady water source are their favorites. About the size of a robin, orioles really enjoy nectar, fruit, and insects. It is possible to see an oriole drink the same nectar as hummingbirds from a hummingbird feeder. You can always purchase a separate feeder specifically designed for orioles. These will be orange versus the typical red of hummingbird feeders.

The nectar recipe for orioles is the same as hummingbird nectar due to the high chance of a hummingbird drinking from an oriole feeder. Some references will state that orioles like less sugar in their nectar than hummingbirds but, if a hummingbird accidentally drinks this nectar, it will be quite detrimental for them. There is no harm involved for an oriole to drink a slightly higher concentration of sugar.

A male Bullock’s Oriole eating an orange.

Fruit is also a great attracter to orioles. Displaying an orange cut in half with the juice side up in a wide-open space where the flying bird may see it is an excellent way to attract orioles to your yard. The bright fruit and juicy pulp of an orange is one of the oriole’s favorite treats. By putting these oranges out by late March and in the beginning of April, the first oriole migrators will want to stop by to re-energize in your yard! Other treats that orioles love include grape jelly, fruit or bug flavored suet, and live mealworms.

The orioles that nest in our area include: Bullock’s Orioles (West side of town), Scott’s Orioles (East side of town), and sometimes Hooded Orioles. An oriole’s nest is shaped like a hanging sock. A very intricate construction, their nests can be hard to spot as they are precariously hidden towards the top of a tree and then may not even be seen until autumn. When an oriole nests in your area, they may very well come back year after year. The oriole you see today might just be the same one who visited you last year.

Western Kingbirds

While not a feeder bird, western kingbirds are always an exciting sight when they arrive. Migrating up from Central American wintering habitats, the western kingbird is looking for nesting sites in open plain areas. Commonly seen perching on trees and wires, the western kingbird will show off their bright, lemon-yellow belly and soft grey backs. While these birds will not be enticed by any birdfeeders in your yard, other factors will attract them. An outdoor water source such as a birdbath or pond is a great attracter. The water will attract all sorts of birds, especially out here in the New Mexico desert. All living things need water and, when in an arid environment, many different creatures, such as insects, will flock to a water feature. Kingbirds love to eat insects. They are quite a sight to enjoy when they are chasing down their prey. Preforming amazing aerial acrobatics displays, kingbirds are a very entertaining summertime visitor.

A western kingbird perched on a wire in search of flying insects.

Resident Nesting Birds

Many of our local desert birds will not leave our general area for nesting, and it can be very exciting to watch them courting and raising their young. We can always help out these birds by offering foods that are high in calcium. This will help the males color their feathers, it will produce higher quality egg shells, and it will later assist chick bone growth. It is very easy to find healthy foods that are high in calcium. Many different kinds of suet will have calcium added to it. If you’re struggling to find food with calcium, try offering eggshells. Eggshells from your regular grocery store eggs are an excellent source. To prepare the egg shell for your birds, you will first need to sterilize them. Rinse the empty eggshells thoroughly with water, then place them on a cookie sheet and bake them at 250°F until the shells are dry and brittle. You may then crumble the baked egg shells and display them on a flat surface outside for the birds to find.

Our local birds that are very active right now include: quail, doves, mocking birds, and the lesser goldfinches.

Quail

Quail are currently establishing territories and nesting. The male quail will stand on a wall or tall branch singing his loud call to notify other quails of his established territory.  The female will incubate her eggs in a shallow nest hidden on the ground for about 21 to 31 days. After the quail chicks hatch, they need to learn how to walk and run very quickly so they don’t become vulnerable prey. The quail chick’s development is much faster than that of other birds because they are able to forage and eat their own food just days after hatching. Other avian species are dependent on the parents to provide food. As the quail chicks grow, they will continue to stay with their parents and other quail to form a group called a covey and they are commonly seen walking in a single file line.

Male Gamble’s Quail checking on his young chicks.

Doves

Doves have adapted to our cities and our suburban environments and they can (and will) build their nests just about anywhere. The main dove species that we will commonly see nesting here in Las Cruces are Rock Doves (which are also known as pigeons), White-Winged Doves, and Mourning Doves. A dove’s total time in a nest from incubation to fledging will be about 40 days. The dove chicks are completely dependent on their parents when they first hatch. Young doves will commonly fall out of nests when first learning how to fly. The best thing to do when spotting a fallen chick is to leave it alone and wait to see if the parent is nearby. Just like learning to walk, they may have to fall a few times before learning to fly. Offering a seed blend that is high in millet scattered on the ground or in a ground tray will really help these nesting birds!

A chart of what to do when spotting a young bird on the ground.

 Mockingbirds

When mockingbirds are looking for a mate, the male will first establish a territory and then find the highest perch within his territory where he begins to sing. To attract a female, the male mockingbird will sing all day and all night. Sadly, there is not much we can do to assist the lone bachelor, but we hope he doesn’t choose to sit outside our windows to sing his lonely song at night.

Goldfinches

Goldfinches join the mockingbird as birds who make a display for the females. The lesser goldfinches are a non-migratory inhabitant of our desert. Known for their gorgeous yellow plumage, the goldfinch will only display this colorful array twice a year and will otherwise wear a more olive-yellow plumage. The goldfinch will molt in the early spring to their much more vibrant name sake as this helps the male attract a mate. Offering fresh nyjer (thistle) seed in your feeders will help these birds have brighter and more colorful feathers.

Discovery is the thrill of the hobby of birdwatching! Many different bird species will increase their activity during this spring and summer. You can attract and view both the migrators and permanent bird residents by providing appropriate nectar, food or nesting materials in your yard.

Ashley Gurnea, our Avian Editor, is a certified bird feeding specialist at Wild Birds Unlimited. A graduate from New Mexico State University, Ashley earned her bachelor degree in the field of Animal Science. She completed an internship at an exotic animal park, working with animals ranging from camels to porcupines and a variety of birds such as parrots and cockatoos. This love and curiosity of aviary has led her to her current position at Wild Birds Unlimited in Las Cruces where she remains up to date with local wild feeder birds. Growing up in a home where animals have always been present, Ashley is now a self-proclaimed “Corgi Countess” due to her love and adoration for her tricolor Pembroke welsh corgi, Colin.  Bring up anything corgi or bird related in a conversation and Ashley will be happy to share her many photos. Feel free to ask her about pet birds, and visit Wild Birds Unlimited for questions on wild birds! Ashley can be reached at ashleygurnea@gmail.com.